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YOU’LL receive a hero’s welcome in Manila. If you’re lucky, it could be confetti, tickertape and the occasional tank. These are the expensive toys employed by revolutionaries, demonstrators and the government – necessary distractions in one of Asia’s most robust and colourful democracies – to welcome travellers, along with serenading minstrels. It’s a tropical cocktail like no other.
Several years ago in Manila I learned heavily armed men strapped with explosives had taken over the airport control tower. An even more heavily armed SWAT team bristling with ordnance had then stormed the place, firing automatic weaponry. All that was missing was King Kong. Reassured by these signs of normalcy, the passengers all went about their regular business. Yet the tension was mounting. Inside, screaming, stampeding, and gesticulating travellers provided ample proof – that airport staff simply does not appreciate the average Filipino’s ability to pack the entire contents of Mindanao in a carry-on bag. Even we draw the line at live chickens. Chickens were not designed to fly, even in economy. And this is the lively street theatre that assails visitors from all sides as they enjoy this country’s unique blend of old world and new, power and pathos, commerce and carnival.
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| Makati is the main business hub |
At hotels you’ll find the customary friendly Filipino greeting. A Labrador with a wet nose sniffed my bags and parts of my anatomy unmolested since my mother demanded to check my underwear before I left for school. Sniffer dogs are hard at work in The Philippines ensuring that hotel guests change their underwear daily and lobbies are free of B.O. It’s a pretty thorough going-over. Everything gets opened. Bags. Cameras. Parasols. And then comes the handheld metal detector. You may even discover your g-spot and throw up your hands in delight. But it’s friendly and oddly reassuring, especially if you happen to like dogs. I photographed mutts at work, asleep, drooling, at attention, sprawled out. It’s a tough business having a nose for trouble.
And then come those heart-melting Filipina smiles. It’s all worth it. Hotel staff here is second to none. But before we delve into our Manila business hotels review and go head-to-head with the Big Two in Makati – The Makati Shangri-La and The Peninsula Manila – let’s finish with the airport.
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Arriving and departing Manila Airport
Security at Ninoy Aquino International Airport (NAIA) is tight. Departures entail three levels of security screenings, one right at the entrance for bags. Later, hang on to your trousers as you drop your belts, bags, computers, shoes and inhibitions. Everything gets checked and you’ll be patted down courteously too. While several airlines insist on a 100ml-bottle perfume and liquids rule for cabin baggage, Manila Airport does not permit the carriage of any liquid in your carry-on. You'll need to place these items in your check-in baggage or run the risk of having it all confiscated. Most travellers to Manila will be well acquainted with the musty, concrete corridors of the International Airport. A newer and more modern facility, the Centennial Terminal is the exclusive domain of the flag carrier Philippine Airlines (PAL).
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| San Antonio Church |
Arriving visitors are usually spared the tedious inspection reserved for outbound passengers. Customs checks are quick and, with just carry-on and a well-timed flight in, you could be from gate to taxi in ten to fifteen minutes. For the cheapest ride into town, exit the airport, cross the lane, and head down the stairs to the street level where the local taxis are parked. Be warned, it can be a scrum. The new Yellow Cab metered taxis that were introduced in March 2008 start with a 70 pesos flagfall and are a godsend. A cab ride to the Makati commercial area where most of the exclusive Manila business hotels are located, will cost about P150-P200 (roughly US$1= P41) or so depending on traffic. There are coupon taxis too.
Departing passengers pay a “terminal fee” of P750. This is forked out just before immigration where a sign will caution you against “cracking jokes about bombs”. Manila airport duty-free shopping is pretty limited and not very competitive. A Johnnie Walker Black Label one-litre bottle is US$30, with a one litre 12-year-old Chivas going for US$32. The BVLGARI Rose Essentielle 50ml eau de toilette is priced at US$67 though there are specials on combinations and smaller sizes. And a 50ml eau de toilette of J’adore by Dior is US$53. Take your pick. Of course, the plunging dollar means that these goodies are getting dearer by the day.
The SMART telecoms company wants your business and has stationed pretty girls to waylay you upon arrival and reset your mobile phone to their frequency. Not a problem.
Makati business hotels review
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| Classical Peninsula lobby |
Built in 1976 for the International Monetary Fund bash, The Peninsula Manila (with the definite article “The”) sits proudly at the intersection of Ayala and Makati Avenues, both busy arteries of commerce. The 497-room hotel has undergone steady renovation in phases. The Ayala Tower gets a facelift and reopens later this year, while rooms and suites in the Makati Tower, as well as all the public areas have already blossomed anew. This despite the ructions of an aborted coup on 29 November, 2007 when rebel soldiers, perhaps tempted by the superlative high teas and chocolate at this grande dame, stormed the hotel for a cuppa, instead of Congress. It all ended peaceably and travellers got their money’s worth. It is after all a tale worth telling, anywhere. Shots fired (into an empty lobby) have left a modest, if characterful, mark in the artwork hanging behind the reception. High-flying guests staying at this excellent address are also likely to be shot – but by flashing cameras – as The Peninsula Manila is an unreservedly top-drawer affair attracting both the beau monde and pin-striped business executives.
Let’s look inside. The bedrooms are enormous. And this is an understatement. The hotel was built at a time when travel meant style, and space, not a modern assembly-line box. The smallest rooms start at 40sq m. Sure enough, there’s enough carpet for a small workout if you are so inclined though you could just as easily pop down to the fitness centre. Perhaps a reflection of the competition posed by the “other” property across the road, or just an endeavour to provide commonsense facilities, The Peninsula offers free in-room Internet access and WiFi in public areas. What is a niggling annoyance at most hotels in this day of “free information” is a delight here. Plug in (using the supplied cable) and get to work mailing your boss or viewing saucy pictures.
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| Spacious Peninsula room |
The bed is expansive, the in-room safe enormous (it can house a large laptop, cameras, video, and valuables, if not your mother-in-law), the smart black wood curving worktable roomy (equipped with Internet and dial-up ports as well as two three-pin electric sockets), and the hair drier a monster. Turn on the blower and you could groom a horse at 20 paces. If you wish to please a woman, button up your trousers and just show her this. Not for The Pen the timorous gasp of a midget drier that might just tickle the eyelashes (as at the InterCon). In a side drawer under the desk you’ll find a smart Canon fax. View the news on a flat-screen TV and let your eye glide over the contours of a very smart oblong chest that conceals the mini-bar.
Step into the large toilet and turn the TV volume knob. It works. No strangled static here. There is a separate shower and bathtub. Reading in bed is a cinch with well-positioned and adjustable lights but the digital control box that includes the clock, slants away at an angle that makes it impossible to tell the time from your bed, when lying down, unless you wedge something underneath to stand it up a bit. And there’s that interminable creak. Not a poltergeist but the “capiz” mother-of-pearl shell headboard panel behind the wooden trellis that crackles at every inflection of changing room temperature.
The Peninsula Manila offers all modern facilities including electronic card keys that you will need to get to your floor though the slot is placed unusually low in the lift, at child height. Staff at the hotel is bright and responsive and service here rivals the best in the country. Add to this an old world flavour, string quartets in the classical gossipy high-ceiling lobby, a pool surrounded by lush greenery, The Peninsula Spa, and excellent food including Italian, Asian and French, and you have an idea why The Pen remains a favourite with the business – and banquet – set. There is little doubt that The Peninsula remains among the best Manila business hotels for the executive on the go or as a classy conference venue. It is certainly among the top Makati business hotels and should be on anyone’s short list.
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| Makati Shangri-La lobby: grand |
The gleaming, modern, 699-room Makati Shangri-La, Manila is just across Ayala Avenue, in the heart of Makati 's Central Business District right next to the shopping. It is in many ways the antithesis of the reserved Pen, younger, bold, brash, large, and trendy. The hotel has cheerfully reinvented itself a few times and outlets have come and gone in mysterious succession. The funky Zu bar has made way for the Quezon Ballroom, while Red with its high-back crimson chairs and startling white décor, Circles café, and the thrumming Conway’s bar where you can quaff all the wine or beer you want for just P500 during happy hour from 5pm-9pm, keep guests enthralled. Wine aficionados can even enjoy an all-you-can-drink wine buffet at the Lobby Lounge from 5pm-9pm for P994. It’s enough to make anyone happy, or at least bleary eyed.
As at many hotels, security is tight, very tight. Expect the usual well groomed Labrador, hand searches, and metal-detectors. The hotel will soon employ a handheld device that scans not just for weapons but also for drugs, like Ecstasy. Another good reason to bring your teenage kids here for a good scanning while you enjoy the endlessly flowing wine. There are no electronic key cards for the lift. But if you’ve made it in past the roving security and checkpoints, you are a genuine guest, celebrity, or royalty.
Let’s step inside. The rooms at the Makati Shangri-La are bright and gold-hued – with elaborately curving and sensuous blonde wood walls (The Pen prefers dark wood) that entertain the eyes and enliven the diminished space. It’s a ship cabin room that runs long rather than square as at The Pen and the Superior room at 38sq m is a tad smaller. Rooms have a normal box TV, which shows CNN and any channel you care to peruse all the same, while suites offer the now obligatory flat-screen TVs.
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| Makati Shangri-La room: blonde wood |
The hair-drier is a good size, there is a fax in all rooms, a large work desk with leather chair, a smallish safe (for jewellery but not a laptop) and a very thoughtful iron and ironing board. The classic round dial clock can be placed anywhere and a flashlight is at hand should you have overindulged at Conway’s and can’t find your nose. The bathroom is fairly compact though not small by any means, with a jet shower, and a separate bathtub. If you’re a workaholic, shell out for Broadband though WiFi is free in the lobby, restaurants and other public areas.
Members of the Horizon Club may avail of exclusive perks such as coddling by butlers and free Internet workstations at the Horizon Club. The hotel also features a comprehensive fitness centre and an open-air podium pool that catches a generous amount of sun. There is no signature CHI spa here (this is currently the preserve of the sister property at EDSA) but there are five treatment rooms for all varieties of treatments and massage. The hotel has a definite buzz about it and front office and guest-relations staff is on the ball. People will reach for your bags and show you around the moment your step in.
And that’s the two best Manila business hotels for you, not just in Makati. Stately? Or slick? Take your pick.
A Makati stalwart, indeed one of the original occupants of this prime stretch of Manila real estate, the InterContinental Manila, offers easy access to commerce and recreation with its central location. Right next door is the Ayala Center, a large commercial establishment complete with theatres, shopping and dining. The hotel’s age is sadly all too apparent in the inherited grey concrete shell that pales by comparison to its more illustrious neighbours. Yet, this Makati business hotel with 335 rooms including 59 suites and 42 Club InterContinental rooms has made a dramatic comeback with fresh renovations and new-look interiors. The makeover has been nothing short of dramatic. The new incarnation proudly sports a penthouse Club InterContinental lounge with wraparound Makati views, classy touches, atmospheric lighting, free Internet access, and a steady supply of canapés and drinks.
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| Checking in at the "new" InterContinental |
The hotel boasts one of the largest outdoor freeform swimming pools around. Shave some vacation fat off with the hotel’s fitness facilities or enjoy a massage after a shopping blitz. Rooms offer paid Internet access at US$20 per day, work tables with ergonomic chairs, a small safe (that will house a video camera if not a laptop) and a variety of bathroom styles, some with showers, others with bathtubs and that must-have drizzle. Yes, there is a hair drier but it lacks zing. Among Makati conference hotels, the InterContinental pulls some weight, with eight function rooms and one spacious Grand Ballroom, all with overhead projectors, high-speed Internet and modern audio-visual equipment. There is much catching up to be done as yet. The hotel has no real focal point in the lobby, no general convivial meeting place, and the bar to one side, while secluded, is almost an afterthought and a far cry from the bustle and elegance of the Shang or The Pen.
For another decent address close to the action, check out the Renaissance Makati City Hotel, Manila, just a few steps away from restaurants, shops and bars. Greenbelt 3 is right across the street with a slew of upscale designer brands and local fare. The renovated hotel offers reasonable business facilities though it is ageing a bit. Also find a gym, sauna and pool. Club floor rooms have irons and ironing boards, pastel decor, work desks and a hair-drier – albeit with its cord wired to the wall just a bit too low for lanky sorts. Regular rooms are middling though comfortable enough for executives on the move. This is a less-pricey choice among Makati business hotels and its location offers quick access in and out of the area without getting snarled up in the legendary Manila gridlock. You will need to pay US$15 per 24-hour cycle for in-room Internet access.
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| Bronze deer prance in Makati |
The Mandarin Oriental Manila is a staid if fairly popular choice on the Makati business hotels line-up though it has been somewhat becalmed in recent years with activity swirling away to the guest-rich neon-lit Makati area near the Shangri-La where shopping and nightlife have mushroomed. The Mandarin has fought back. It is no slouch when it comes to food. The eight restaurants and bars, including the smart and cosy street-side Martinis, make the accommodations seem like an afterthought. Rooms are elegant, traditional, and corporate, with light colours and rich deep-blue cushions and bed-runners. Nothing trendy here. Just useful, easy-on-the-eye space.
Rooms starts at around 39sq m. And, after-hours, The Spa at Mandarin Oriental, Manila, offers a sensual escape amidst décor redolent of mystical Thailand. Or opt for the pool, 24-hour Health Club, or yoga studio. This eighteen-storey hotel has 443 rooms. Whether you have free access to in-room Internet will depend on your package though the Club Lounge has free access if you need it. The Mandarin Oriental Manila makes a good stab at positioning itself as a Makati conference hotel with around 15,000sq ft of function space including a ballroom large enough to accommodate 1,000 guests.
The 548-room Dusit Thani Manila is another old warhorse that has had a shot of Viagra. It now sports a gleaming black-marble lobby with soaring golden pillars. The hotel comes with fourteen meeting and banqueting rooms equipped with modern apparatus and the ability to host gatherings of up to 1,000 guests. This is a well-utilised Makati conference hotel with ease of access into and out of the area. The in-house fitness centre DFiT serves up 973sq m of exercise and sauna space, while the Devarana Spa is a rejuvenation hideaway. The hotel has seven bars and restaurants that serve Japanese, Royal Thai, Italian and of course Filipino fare. In-room expect refurbishment touches including pastel brown furnishings, flat-screen TV, hairdryer and Internet access at P675 per day. The Superior rooms start at a smallish 28sq m with a Corner King at 45sq m.
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| Ascott Makati twin towers |
Makati service apartments and longstays
The 30-storey twin tower Ascott Makati (formerly Oakwood Premier apartments) is right smack in the middle of the Ayala Center and the Glorietta 4 shopping mall. Its 306 apartments include studios, one to three-bedroom residences and penthouses. Make use of Broadband access in each apartment at US$20 per day or go Wireless in the public areas. Long-staying guests may also avail of special rates. Expect an outdoor pool, two outdoor tennis courts, spa and massage rooms. In-room facilities include TV, fridge, microwave, toaster, cooking range and coffee machine. Security may be a tad heavy at times. A Filipina friend of mine with a family pedigree demanding instant prostration has been stopped several times at the elevator by anxious guards suspicious of Asian faces. She told me she made it to the upper-floor restaurants, eventually. Another Makati service apartment and longstay option is its sister-property Somerset Olympia Makati. Close to The Peninsula, it is the cheapest of three Somersets in town, and with an excellent location though cabs are not the easiest to come by on Makati Avenue at peak hours.
A quality option for a Makati service apartment is Fraser Place Manila, near Salcedo Village not far from the Mandarin Oriental. Expect well-appointed residences with jet pools and multi-point showers, TV with DVD hook-up, Broadband, hairdryer, large refrigerator, microwave, cutlery and iron with ironing board. A handy feature is all apartments come with a maid’s room and toilet. There is also an open-air pool, a play area for kids, a wading pool, gym, and business centre for the dads. Internet is complimentary with most packages.
Makati budget hotels
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| Even guard dogs take a break |
Oxford Suites Makati, located close to P Burgos Street – Makati’s red-light row – offers convenient access to the city’s business district, plus its more playful nooks. This is a useful Makati budget hotel of sorts with in-room cable TV, mini-bar, safe, Internet access, WiFi in the lobby, business centre, coffee shop and function rooms. Smack on P Burgos is the Citadel Inn Makati with in-room cutlery, kitchenware, fridge, mini-bar and a swimming pool on the sixth floor. The hotel even has a small business centre. A studio here will set you back just P2,500 (US$60). WiFi is available at P240 per day and the front desk has a safe to store your valuables. The area is teeming with restaurants from Japanese and Korean to Thai, Chinese and American.
A reasonably cheap Manila budget hotel is the gleaming Makati Palace Hotel. It is brash, loud, in the centre of P Burgos, and better appointed than its simpler neighbours. You can get rates of around P3,050 (US$74) here or lower, depending on the season. There is a swimming pool, gym, business centre and complimentary shoeshine on the Royal Executive Floor. This is one of those tawdry over-the-top establishments you won’t mind using for the cheap room rate but you’ll need to don shades when you step out lest your friends spot you and have you arrested.
For those flying in for a budget weekend, it doesn’t get much cheaper than Saint Illian's Inn in Makati. Its deals (for about US$40) can conjure a smile upon the most hardened faces, and the place is smack in the middle of everything. All the basic requisite comforts are available – Cable TV, shower with hot and cold water and air-conditioning.
Paramount’s clean and comfortable 20-room Salcedo Suites at LPL Manor have air-conditioning, cable TV and fridge and start as low as US$43 on an Internet deal.
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| Hyatt Hotel & Casino room/ photo: hotel |
Manila business hotels and leisure stays
First off, figure out where your work is. As the crow flies, Manila (the Roxas Avenue area along the seafront and the government offices) and Makati (the business and financial hub) are just a few kilometres apart. But as the car travels – especially at peak time – a commute can be a test of patience and skill. Plan ahead. Manila business hotels are varied though this area tends to also attract a leisure crowd.
Find the large and modern 378-room Hyatt Hotel and Casino Manila in the upper Malate area. With four levels of casino space (one exclusively for foreigners) this is one of the largest facilities for high-rollers. The contemporary state-of-the-art ballroom offers 6,763sq ft of flexible space that can handle a 600-person sit-down dinner. At Club Oasis guests can enjoy spa facilities, a fitness centre, sauna, hot and cold plunge pools and a 35m lap pool.
The premier Regency Club offers business travellers all the little extras and personalised service. In-room there's a work station, flat-screen TV, a DVD and CD player and Broadband access that is charged per day. Rooms are bright and airy on account of the extra-high ceilings and large glass windows that create a nice sense of space. Bathrooms are well lit and welcoming, with rain showers. Pastel wallpaper mutes the contemporary in-room tone contrasted by bright cushions and textured fabric that adds Filipino spice. The exterior is a rather bright mustard yellow that may not be to everyone's taste but the interiors are crisp and modern. This is among the top Manila business hotels in the area.
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| Diamond Hotel overlooks the Bay |
The Hyatt is part of a cluster of three hotels that will catch your eye. This is where you’ll find the gracious Diamond Hotel Philippines (formerly Manila Diamond). The Diamond’s bars and restaurants have won numerous accolades and service is crisp with a smile. Its rooms are fashionably European in taste and style – they offer a smart environment with luxury trim and silk cushions. All rooms have Broadband Internet access with a daily rate of US$15. WiFi is charged as well. This 27-storey hotel offers great views along Roxas and across the bay. End-of-day wind-down options include the outdoor pool, a massage at Diamond Spa and perhaps a sauna to slough off that daytime Manila muck.
The Pan Pacific Manila is a contemporary hotel adjacent to Robinson’s Mall. All rooms are equipped with high-speed Internet connections, which are available for a fee of P800 per day, and a CD player. Rooms offer hypo-allergenic bedding for the extra-sensitive,a TV you can view from the bathtub, and 24-hour butler service. There is a business centre, several function rooms and a grand ballroom. All three hotels in this area stake their claim to being the best Manila conference hotel choice and, with the Philippine International Convention Center and the Cultural Center of the Philippines, or CCP, across Roxas Avenue, this is perhaps something to heed if business brings you to this area.
The cheaper Bayview Park Hotel is on upper Roxas Boulevard not far from the stately but groaning 500-room Manila Hotel that has been home to just about every head of state and celebrity that’s ever visited The Philippines. This goes back all the way to Douglas McArthur and right up to Michael Jackson, who is a gentleman of course. Experience hoary Philippines hospitality, old world furnishings and decor, and creaking waiters at 570-room Manila Hotel. It has certainly seen better days and now tends to be overrun by conventioneers and general onlookers keen to snap the chandeliers and pose for weddings. Internet is available at P800 per day and there’s WiFi in the lobby that is also charged.
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| Sofitel Philippine Plaza room/ photo: hotel |
Along the mid-point of Roxas Avenue is the Traders Hotel Manila by Shangri-La with views of Manila Bay, an outdoor pool, fitness centre, Traders Club accommodation for executive guests featuring 36sq m rooms with high-end furnishings, Broadband, satellite TV, and writing desk, and the Traders Club lounge with flowing refreshments and cocktails. Regular in-room Internet is charged at US$20 per 24-hour period.
Also on Roxas is the excellent little G Hotel Manila by Waterfront. It’s a mouthful of a name for a small friendly property with 50 rooms housed in seven storeys offering personalised service and a boutique hotel experience. Service is attentive, smiling and brisk. Walk in without being eaten alive by a salivating dog. Nearby are the now closed Admiral Hotel and a useful, pretty clean, Manila budget hotel option, the Aloha Hotel. Don’t expect too much here but all the basics are available for under US$60 a night.
For one of the best Manila conference hotels, secluded, resort-style and by the bay, take a look at the Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila, once a concrete relic from the Marcos years, now a revitalised bit of real estate humming with French flair and artistry. Check out their buffets. The 609-room Sofitel (formerly Westin) is geared firmly towards the business traveller and conventioneer. Sited right next to the Philippine International Convention Center, guests attending conferences and meetings at this venue need only invest in a three-minute walk to the site. Rooms are minimalist and neat with bright splashes of colour provided by cushions, with private balconies looking onto Manila Bay. Make use of the hotel’s putting greens and driving range, work out on the all-weather floodlit tennis courts, or avail of the 24-hour spa and fitness centre. Nearby is the cruise departure area for Corregidor Island, an interesting side trip for the road-weary. And yes, getting to Makati or back from here during peak hours is well nigh Mission Impossible. At other times, it’s a 15-minute breeze. In-room Internet is available for 24 hours at P905.
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| Crowne Plaza Galleria/ photo: hotel |
Not far from here the 450-room The Heritage Hotel Manila once a sprightly smart option, popular with business travellers, and deemed to be conveniently located equidistant from the airport, the bay area and Makati, has evolved into a hellhole in the middle of nowhere. The only view you’ll get from here is of traffic and belching jeepneys. At night, the girlie bars take over across the road with loud karaoke music and disco. The minimal security at the door is perhaps fortuitous for the ladies working late shifts at the dance clubs nearby. If you can concentrate, Internet is available at P800 per day. Facilities include a pool and fitness centre. The refurbished Millennium Club rooms offer a better sanctuary with views of Manila Bay and the city. Millennium Hotels and Resorts who operate this establishment have many excellent hotels in their stable. Heritage, unfortunately, is not one of these.
Ortigas hotels and serviced apartments
In this fast developing business and commercial district, the 263-room Crowne Plaza Galleria Manila offers a smart product with outdoor pool, gym, spa, business centre and Internet at P900 per hour. Check out the Red Corner fitness club. It is also called the “boxing club” and if your boss has been particularly curmudgeonly you can choose your martial art and have a go. Feel better? The Kiddie Corner will take care of tiny tykes and the Robinson’s Galleria Mall next door has a Toys R Us. The linked 284-room Holiday Inn Galleria Manila (formerly the Manila Galleria Suites) offers pool, gym and spa, with a published rate starting at P6,650 though seasonal specials will be cheaper. Both these properties are located near Ortigas Center.
Adjacent to two major shopping centres (Megamall and Shangri-la Mall), the top dog in the Ortigas area is unquestionably the 632-room Edsa Shangri-la Manila, which provides easy access – when traffic is flowing, of course – to any part of Manila via its main artery, the Epifanio De Los Santos Avenue (or EDSA). Its alluring CHI The Spa has 3,000sq m of treatment suites, body scrub rooms with heated floors and relaxation lounges. Although the brand tends to channel the spirit of the Himalayas, it does feature locally-inspired treatments using banana leaves, coconut milk and indigenous herbs. The Tower Wing superiors start at 34sq m with a Premier going up to 46sq m. Edsa Shangri-La is among the more sought after Manila conference hotels for big to small meetings.
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| EDSA Shangri-La CHI the Spa/ photo: hotel |
The Discovery Suites complex is a premier serviced apartment building in the heart of the Ortigas business district and it is well worth a look. It has all the trappings of a business hotel with the comforts of home. Rooms come with unlimited Internet access, pay-per-view movie channels, a fully-stocked kitchen and local daily newspapers. It has a busy feel and attracts a mixed clientele. Broadband is available in the rooms at P675 per day.
The Astoria Plaza Hotel is strolling distance from Megamall, Shangri-La Plaza, and Robinsons Galleria while Makati is 30 minutes away by cab. In-hotel amenities include a spa, health centre and a beauty salon. The hotel’s two-bedroom suites come fully loaded with everything including a kitchen. The Richmonde Hotel, also at the Ortigas Center, is a bit more upscale with specials starting from US$90 (the rack rate, single, is US$150). The rooms all come with Broadband Internet access, cable TV, a personal safe and a data port for fax and data modems. Internet usage and a buffet breakfast can be thrown in for a small fee.
Manila cheap hotels, pensiones and value hotels
Paramount’s Atrium Hotel in Pasay offers comfortable rooms with mini-bar, IDD telephones, cable television, and a bathroom with a bathtub and a handy hair-drier. This is not a budget hotel but a limited service value hotel that offers online rates from as low as US$50 or better.
Malate Pension located on Adriatico Street in Malate, is for budget travellers who want to stay close to the action. Rates are low but bottom-feeders can crawl down to about US$9 for a dormitory-style set-up. Both fan-cooled and air-conditioned rooms are available at cheap rates. For another cheap Manila hotel option explore the Cove Budget Hotel that offers basic fare in Malate. No hot water on tap though, but what would you expect at US$10 or less per night? You will need to share the bathroom, rooms are on the small side, and the sheets are a musty grey, but there are air-conditioned rooms too with bathroom from US$19. This is one of the more popular cheap Manila hotel options.
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| Manila Jeepney flashes past |
Getting around Manila
Moving about in Metro Manila isn’t terribly challenging, though you will want to keep an eye on taxi drivers out to make a fast buck. Availing of hotel transport is considerably more expensive than just walking out of the lobby and flagging a street cab. Most areas of direct interest are about P100-P150 from the Makati area. Make sure your driver turns his meter on – some will conveniently “forget”. Rush hour can be maddening so do bear this in mind. The Manila-Makati cross town could take over an hour-and-a-half if you’re unlucky, or a typhoon is sweeping into town. There are also three metro rail systems that make life a bit, if not a lot, more convenient. The MRT or Metro Rail Transit travels the length of EDSA, a major artery that runs through the length of the city. There is a stop near the Dusit.
Manila shopping guide
Manila shopping is fun. No doubt about that. But, while selections are vast, well presented and engaging, prices are higher than in Hong Kong or Singapore. Malls are conveniently clustered together for ease of access.
The modern Greenbelt malls showcase Makati shopping at its best. These offer a tad more class and quiet, and feature a variety of upscale designer fashions for that Manila shopping binge. Pop into BVLGARI or DKNY. Or try outlets like Firma (tel: 757-4009) which does jewellery and Panama hats from Ecuador at P4,000 up, the all-black Carbon (tel: 634-4020) with its leather creations, bags and furniture, Kate Spade (tel: 757-4570) with handbags from P20,000, Mixdenim (tel: 757-4731) with jeans starting at P12,000, and Sou Mak Bed 'n Beddings (tel: 757-3914) showcasing a range of bed linen from the Philippines. The Glorietta complex, or “The Quad” at the heart of the Makati shopping action has everything from Nautica to Marks & Spencer, eats, junk food, and lots of distraction for kids.
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| Shop display in Makati mall |
A good place for a long afternoon’s trawl, according to Manila correspondent Joaquin Paolo Gochoco, is the Galleria-Megamall-Shangri-La cluster. This group of malls is readily accessible via the MRT. From your hotel, it will be more convenient and expeditious to take a cab to the nearest station — Taft Avenue for those in the Manila Bay area and Ayala for those in Makati. The ride to Shaw Boulevard station will take about thirteen minutes from Ayala station and sixteen minutes from Taft station. The fare is a staggering 11-13 pesos. North Avenue Station is about 22 minutes from Taft, and costs around P15.
You’ll find just about everything you want for your Manila shopping binge at these three malls, from the familiar to the downright funky. Shopping for things to bring to the folks at home? Check out Tesoro's (tel: [63-2] 844-4143) in Arnaiz Avenue for traditional Filipino handicrafts, Balikbayan Handicrafts (tel: 893-0777) also on Arnaiz Avenue for more of the same with a bit more woody flair, and Silahis (tel: 527-2113) in Intramuros for antique furniture and trinkets. Next to the Shangri-La in Makati, 6750 Ayala houses top-end European brands and designs. Next door, at Rustan’s you’ll find fragrances and jewellery.
Megamall’s department store has even more offerings in terms of local goods. A personal favourite is the barrel man, whose dongle pops up along with his arms when the barrel is lifted over his head. It makes for a pretty amusing table piece to show friends back home. You’ll also find the Islands Philippines store here. For those of you who like to take home “I was there” t-shirts, these average around P300. All three malls have the usual accoutrements, and health and beauty stores like Watson’s and The Body Shop have the best selection in terms of skin care and therapy products.
Greenhills, is a Manila shopping centre a five or ten-minute cab ride from any of the three malls. Various stalls selling every kind of merchandise are all housed under one roof in air-conditioned bliss giving the shopper a flea market experience minus the dust and heat. Recent years have seen an explosion in the shopping centre’s growth. What was once a mere supermarket and an odd collection of clothing stores has grown into an all-in-one shopping centre replete with cinemas and a fine selection of menus to satisfy every palate. At Greenhills you’ll find everything from exotic South Sea pearls to cheap garments, mobile phones and electronic accessories. Depending on the quality, a string of pearls will set you back about US$16-$60. The trinket stores are all side by side making for extremely competitive pricing. Prices can be obscenely low. Like any flea market, haggling is not only acceptable but expected but not in the higher end stores. Purists can head to the old quarter of Intramuros and its antique shops like Galeria Ida Antique.
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| Inside Intramuros Cathedral |
Up north you’ll find TriNoMa, another massive addition to Manila’s collection of malls. It’s easily accessed by the MRT, which has an entrance that connects directly to the mall. The train ride takes about twelve minutes from the Ayala station in Makati. The mall itself is shaped like a large lopsided triangle, which makes navigating its environs a bit of a challenge. But if you’re patient enough, you’ll find everything you could possibly fancy. Kids can go to the local Toys R Us, mums can check out a few designer bags, while dads can get their fill of gadgets ranging from electronic shavers to the latest model mobile phones. Hungry? Choosing from the multitude of dining establishments can be a challenge. Mall hours are from 10am to 9pm.
The Mall of Asia is a must-see. It’s the largest mall in Asia, and is built on a huge patch of reclaimed land, south of Roxas Boulevard. Moving around requires a bit of legwork but there’s a competitive selection of latest-season goods. The mall also has the only IMAX theatre in the country. The best way to get to the mall is by cab. Mall hours are from 10.30am to 9pm.
That’s Manila shopping in a nutshell. What’s the catch? Well, you’ll have to brave the crowds on the weekends and you don’t even want to contemplate a visit during the Christmas holidays. This is when things really pick up pace.
Manila dining and nightlife
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| Fort Bonifacio restaurants and shops |
Whatever your taste or pleasure, Manila dining offers something for everyone. The latest area to catch the citizens’ fancy is the new Fort development near Fort Bonifacio, about a 10-minute drive from Makati without traffic, past the splendid San Antonio church to the broad greens, condominiums, and restaurant areas. Look for places like Red Kimono (Japanese), Hossein’s Persian Kebabs (A Manila stalwart, with a terrific upstairs outlet and a “sheesha” hubble-bubble bar near P Burgos too), Caffe Puccini (Italian), Trio Italian Bistro, Prince of Jaipur (Indian), and Pier One (seafood in a pirate shack – or ship, maybe).
At the Ayala Center in Makati, a row of restaurants span Italian to native Filipino fare. A meal for two at most of the establishments here will cost about P1,800 (US$43). At Greenbelt make time to visit Café Bola, where Filipino food is served with panache. Try its “sinigang” (boiled pork in a sour soup) and “tuyo” (dried herring) for a decidedly Filipino experience. MyLK, another Greenbelt restaurant, serves a kaleidoscope of dishes centred on the concept of comfort food. Wasabi (tel: 840-4223) on Makati Avenue close by The Peninsula is a contemporary Japanese restaurant with Californian influence. Try the white fish, crabmeat and avocado with a special sauce.
The Podium at Ortigas Center is another place to check out: a pricey part-deli restaurant, part-grocery store. The food is a mix of Mediterranean and Asian, with options such as a cold-cut platter and shrimp chilli pasta. Popular for coffee and cakes too. It’s about thirty minutes by cab from Makati. Mario's (tel: 634-3417) is for fine dining, complete with grand piano and elegant chandeliers. Try the oysters Rockefeller with spinach hollandaise sauce and angel hair pasta with black olives. Complement your meal with a choice of wine from the fine cellar. The restaurant is located at St Francis Square in the Ortigas Center.
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| RED at Makati Shangri-La: stylish |
Illustrado (tel: 301-0183), housed in a rebuilt turn-of-the-century house in Intramuros, offers Spanish and traditional Filipino fare. There's an excellent menu coupled with an extensive wine list. Try their paella and “adobong usa” (venison cooked in vinegar and soy sauce). The restaurant features a separate coffee shop with freshly prepared pastries. Barbara's (tel: 527-4090) offers a Spanish-inspired setting. It’s fairly romantic and seafood is the order of the day here.
For Spanish, there's Guernica’s (tel: 521-4415), where the menu is strictly traditional. The dishes are heavy on olive oil and garlic and the restaurant's trio of musicians serenade tables. Guernica's is located at Jorge Bocobo Street in Malate.
Manila nightlife is second to none and the partying goes on into the wee hours. The Hard Rock comes to life at about 10pm. Happy hour starts at noon and ends at 7pm, making it perhaps one of the longest "hours" anywhere. Forget that siesta – get happy instead. Café Havana (tel: 757-4370) is located in both Greenbelt in Makati and Malate, and has a reputation for wild drinking and dancing. The bar hopping scene is centred mainly on two locations: Libis in Quezon City and Malate in Old Manila. A bottle of beer will set you back about P150-P300, depending on how snazzy the place is. Meanwhile Grappa's brews its own beer and offers an interesting selection of flavoured beer in addition to an excellent menu.
Should you find yourself up in north Manila of the evening, you may want to check out Seventyseven Café and Bar (tel: 7839-1982). With a homey, ’70s throwback feel, this family-run business presents relaxed alfresco dining. The cosy restaurant downstairs serves its signature chicken cacciatore and chicken marsala and has a decent selection of white and red wines.
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| Greenbelt outdoor cafe |
Testosterone-crazed Alpha Males will head for the beer and bawdy ruckus of places like P Burgos Street and Malate, where skimpily-clad ladies coo from neon-lit doorways, urging the purchase of an overpriced drink in a noisy establishment. Girlie bars around P Burgos Street with names like Flamingo, Rogues, Dimples, and Ivory beckon, and continue to do so until 4am while touts outside offer Viagra or Cialis at P1,000 for four tablets. You’ll be offered the Viagra regardless of whether you’re 20 or 70. That’s a lot of drinking, and partying. Regular priced beer is P150 (happy hour is cheaper) though your cooing companion’s drink will be double that.
Yet Makati has a slew of terrific bars, without the come-hither cost. Conway’s (tel: 633-8888) on the second floor of the Shangri-La Makati offers an all-you-can-drink menu at P500 during happy hour (5pm to 9pm). You'll drown in hops but die happy.
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