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| JW Marriott Mumbai Quan Spa/ photo: hotel |
SPAS AND WESTERN-STYLE health resorts are a relatively recent phenomenon in India. In the good old days, if you wanted steam, all you had to do was step out into India’s baking summers and that cellulite would run for cover. It was cheap and effective. There was also a centuries-old tradition of ayurveda, practised at Hindu ashrams (monastic retreats), offering holistic, life-enhancing treatments including yoga techniques. Today, packaged contortion, aromatic rubs, aura imaging and herbal body pummelling are available in abundance. And traditional ayurvedic health resorts are aplenty in the south where they flourish as an authentic cottage industry in the state of Kerala and elsewhere.
A fashionable spot in which to unwind and literally get high is Ananda – In The Himalayas. This wellness sanctuary situated in a restored royal palace in the Himalayan foothills claims, among other things, to have the world’s oldest billiards table. It offers a blend of therapeutic treatments based on traditional ayurveda, yoga and meditation. The spa also offers the latest European and Thai treatments to purify the body and soothe the senses. There are 20 therapy rooms along with yoga venues, and hydrotherapy, relaxation and fitness areas.
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Perched in the hills above the holy city of Rishikesh on the Ganges, Ananda is a short day’s drive (260km) from Delhi. If your wallet is up to it, charter a helicopter, or fly to Dehra Dun and do the one-hour scenic drive up. Among the treatment options are the signature “Ananda Touch” focusing on the shoulders, neck and upper back, and the ayurvedic “panchkarma”, a five-way therapy to correct imbalances.
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| Amarvilas, and the Taj, Agra/ photo: hotel |
In busy New Delhi, The Shangri-La Hotel New Delhi, smack in the heart of town in a garden setting, offers extensive spa facilities with an arsenal of holistic wellness menus including steam rooms, private treatment rooms, aromatherapy, Jacuzzis and ayurvedic massage. Or just visit the Beauty Salon for some Indian-style pampering. Club Olympus at the Hyatt Regency Delhi oozes contemporary credentials, with soothing shades of beige meeting splashy modern art. Along with fitness facilities and the bathing complex are a modest range of beauty and massages therapies to indulge in, between those sessions at the poolside bar.
At the boutique and centrally-located The Park New Delhi, Aura, its new day spa aims to soothe away those business executive worries. The hotel is unimposing from the outside but don't let this discourage you. Designer flourishes kick in inside where serene earth tones and rich woods are perked up with bold splashes of colour and mysterious beaded curtains. Try the ambitious “Aura’s Soul Balancing Face Massage” – a treatment “to rebalance the bio-energy of the body” by activating points on the face, head and feet. And if you like this, there’s more… Aura has a sister operation in Chennai and, shortly, Kolkata.
There’s nothing like a good massage after galumphing around on a camel, and Neemrana Fort-Palace offers both options in some seriously majestic surroundings. The ancient 25-acre property (an hour’s drive from Delhi) is hewn into the Rajasthan hillside, and its Sansha Spa focuses primarily on holistic ayurvedic treatments. Other courses of therapy combine techniques from across Asia, and use mineral exquisites from the deeply plundered Dead Sea. Bask by the open-air pool with views over Neemrana village and fields, or take advantage of free yoga and meditation classes.
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| Spa at Devigarh, Rajasthan/ photo: hotel |
Dotting the north and west of the country with excellent facilities are a string of Oberoi Hotels (with spas by Banyan Tree), much favoured by corporate jetsetters. At The Oberoi New Delhi, therapists will work off your stress with a range of 60-minute breaks employing aromatic, Balinese, Hawaiian, and Thai massages. Or take a shorter break with a half hour marma point facial, adapted from a traditional Indian natural healing system. This facial stimulates vital energy points on the head, face and ears with aromatic oils and herbal products.
If you’re heading on to Agra, the home of the Taj Mahal, pamper yourself at Amarvilas where every suite has a view of this Mughal monument to love. Get in early before the summer sun heats up the stone floors leaving you skipping like a cat on a hot tin roof. The spa menu includes an extravagant essence of rice massage where rice, warm buttermilk, herbal and aromatic lotions are used to compelling effect. The “Noor-e-Taj” is right royal three-hour experience that includes an almond cleansing scrub, honey citrus wrap, Balinese massage and an old-fashioned lavender milk bath.
On to Jaipur capital city in the state of Rajasthan, where Rajvilas awaits with a turmeric skin purifier or rose sandalwood wrap – luxurious recipes used widely by the royals of this desert state. After a day of storming through Jaipur’s fabulous sightseeing, don’t miss out on the “Spirit of Ayurveda” treatment that includes a sand bundle massage, shirodhara (where a stream of sesame oil is poured over your third eye), and a flower bath.
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| Ananda in the Himalayas/ photo: hotel |
Further calls to extravagance can be found at the The Jai Mahal Palace, a landscaped wonder. The tented spa complex offers services from the Rajasthani ‘ubtan’ to the lavish seeming ‘Royal Aromatic Massage’, combining western and Indian therapies. They also stand on tradition, with a footbath ritual at the beginning of each treatment – so not for the ticklish.
Experience the allure of a real oasis at Amanbagh by Amanresorts, an upscale yet understated refresher among Alwar’s dusty Aravalli Hills, not far from Jaipur. The sprawling heritage resort features a 33m pool and a large, architecturally pleasing spa pavilion. Therapists here brandish natural products from the Aman Spa range and use them in healing therapies, facials, massages, scrubs and traditional henna art after a comforting consult.
In Rajasthan, the Oberoi Group has two other resorts – in the Ranthambore tiger reserve and in the haunting lake city of Udaipur. In Ranthambhore, tangle with tigers at the Oberoi Vanyavilas before soothing your nerves with a stint at the spa. Perched over a lake, the pavilion-style building features steam rooms, showers, baths and therapy suites. Thai therapists are on hand to administer beauty and spa treatments, which include the Indian Spice Wrap, Guava Scrub and Mint Bath. Fortunately these are flavours not known to feature prominently on many tiger menus.
In the spa suites at the Oberoi’s Udaivilas in Udaipur, rejuvenation and relaxation is on a royal scale. There are spectacular views of Picchola Lake and the City Palace outside, while inside, the awesomely-named “Royal Treasures” will assail you with sandalwood and turmeric scrubs, tomato body wraps, and a massage capped by a milk and rose bath. Hidden in the folds of the Aravalli range, the restored 18th Century historic palace of Devi Garh near Udaipur is an elegant retreat with modern interiors. There is a spa offering ayurvedic therapies utilising medicated oils and herbal mixtures to alleviate stress. The facilities include a gym, steam room, sauna, Jacuzzi and beauty parlour.
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| Taj Fisherman's Cove, Chennai/ photo: hotel |
Up in the rarefied environs of the Himalayas, near the one-time summer capital of British India, Shimla, is Oberoi’s Wildflower Hall. Here, pine-scented mountain air and nature take charge of your senses. While wild lavender scrubs and geranium cream wraps are a must, try out the shiro abhyangam to “centre yourself”. Then dive into “Himalayan Mysteries” – lavender-scented scrub, Hawaiian massage, cleansing facial and a fragrant jasmine bath.
Still in the north, Ranjit’s SVAASA Heritage Boutique Wellness Resort & Spa, Amritsar, is a mouthful. This is a family-run place in a red-brick colonial home with enough old world paraphernalia to keep the most fastidious historian in cheer. It recently underwent an expansion in both building and name, and now includes luxury suites as well as a presidential offering. It offers a large variety of international dishes, including organic stuff. A one-night two-day single package here retails for around Rs11,099 up, and includes an ayurvedic doctor consultation, personalised menu, massage, yoga and half-day sightseeing of the Golden Temple.
On the west coast, in the financial heartland of Mumbai, take time out at the sprawling artwork-festooned, yet brisk, Grand Hyatt Mumbai and its Club Oasis Fitness Centre and Spa complete with treatments rooms, Jacuzzis, steam rooms and outdoor pool. The JW Marriott Mumbai too offers its state-of-the-art and utterly spoiling Quan Spa, and The Oberoi Mumbai is a another good upscale option. At The Leela Kempinski Mumbai enjoy gardens, a spa, meditation, yoga and "naturopathy".
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| Luxury at The Leela Goa/ photo: hotel |
At The Taj Mahal Palace and Tower, Mumbai, Jiva offers a soothing environment with a plethora of cool, soothing treatments. Try booking yourself an “Energising Salt Glow”, an “Exotic Lime and Ginger Scrub” or an “Imperial Head Massage”. Many therapies draw on the location, and the spa also promotes an ashtanga yoga program for up to four people. Simple shiatsu or aromatherapy massages round out the menu.
The Taj Group of Hotels are a polished presence not only in key Indian business cities, but in the spa and health arena especially in Goa and Kerala. In Goa, don’t miss out on the Taj Fort Aguada Beach Resort. Built on the ramparts of a 16th Century Portuguese fortress, the resort is part of a sprawling 88-acre complex overlooking the Arabian Sea. Situated right on the beach, the resort offers guests a unique opportunity to relax in elegantly appointed villas and cottages, serenaded by lapping waves. The spa complements its Goan-Portugese design with a tropical feel, and Indian therapies are a specialty. Each treatment suite has its own soak pool, while yoga rooms and ayurveda physicians are on hand for all your physical, and metaphysical needs. There’s also a health bar and standalone beauty salon.
There are two other Taj hotels to choose from in Goa. The Taj Exotica is perched on the southwest coast of Goa, overlooking the Arabian Sea. It is situated on 56 acres of landscaped lawns, complete with tropical plants and graceful palms. The Taj Holiday Village is a complex of terracotta-roof Portuguese-Goan cottages, set amidst acres of palm-fringed landscaped gardens just 45-minutes from the airport. All three offer a range of treatments inspired by traditional Indian therapies, ranging from those infused with spices – such as sandalwood, sesame, frankincense, brahmi and amla – to massage combined with guided meditation. Body and soul fully catered for.
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| Park Hyatt Goa/ photo: hotel |
At the Baroque-Portugese InterContinental The Grand Resort Goa golfing and spa-ing can go hand in hand, with 40 green acres to traverse before a well deserved pummel. The spa complex has been trusted to Champneys, a well-known UK health chain, but treatments remain reassuringly international. Go for a Javanese or Balinese treatment one day, opt for something ayurvedic the next. Don’t forget to try out the pulsating showers.
On the banks of the River Sal, The Leela Goa is set on 75 luxurious acres along prime Arabian Sea beachfront. All rooms face water and range from the pavilions to 93sq m lagoon suites and four sumptuous 133sq m royal villas. The spa specialises in ayurvedic treatments but also offers a buffet of yoga, Western spa therapies, sauna, steam, a gym and massage. The resort is managed by the Singapore-based General Hotels Management that also operates top-drawer properties like the Datai, Langkawi and The Legian, Bali. The Club at The Leela, a private enclave (with separate check-in) of 15 villas, some with private pools, is the latest addition.
An upscale entrant to the Goa spa scene is the rebranded Hyatt Regency Goa Resort and Spa, now an upscale Park Hyatt. The Park Hyatt Goa Resort and Spa is a 251-room resort designed to mirror Goa's diverse cultural heritage.
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| Malabar House Cochin/ photo: hotel |
The resort offers a laid-back Mediterranean atmosphere, imitating the ambience of a Goan village with its series of pousadas. Rooms are contemporary with verandahs or balconies and bathrooms feature sunken baths and rain showers. Some rooms have their own private patch of garden. The Regency Club is a tad more exclusive with butlers in attendance. The resort’s Sereno Spa offers ayurvedic and international fare and has its therapy pavilions arrayed around an inner courtyard. And for kids there’s Camp Hyatt and one of the largest swimming pools in the country.
Independent operators like the Ayurvedic Natural Health Centre in Goa may not offer five-star frills but they do have musclebound, die-hard ayurvedic practitioners versed in the five classic panchkarma treatments. These include vamana (emetics), virecana (laxatives), basti (a medicated enema), nasya (nasal cleansing), and rakta mokshana (blood letting). That’s right, blood letting. If your knees are knocking violently at all this and you are not convinced, head to the Centre’s New Age aura imaging centre which will take before-and-after snapshots of your chakra colours to make the point that ayurveda can and will boost your energy levels. And don’t miss out on the yoga, or the potentially even more punishing “Diet Management” programme. There is also a resort operated by the group.
Bangalore, India’s Garden City and Silicon Valley is blessed with a temperate climate, great cuisine and some good spas to boot. The Golden Palms Spa & Resort is located on the outskirts of the city in several acres of lush garden. Accommodation features include a hypoallergenic pillow, safety deposit boxes, minibar, and rooms with wheelchair access. There’s an extensive gym (with a ladies-only area), a “cardio-theatre”, aerobic studio, Turkish hammams, steam rooms and a Jacuzzi. Also downtown, Spa.ce is an independent option that opened fairly recently near the Le Meridien, and has a good set of day packages. Interiors here are stylish but homey, the menu is long and there’s a lovely courtyard space for those that like a little sunshine with their spa.
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| Angsana Bangalore/ photo: hotel |
Highly acclaimed, the Angsana Bangalore (managed by Singapore-based Banyan Tree) is located outside town and offers a variety of holistic, therapeutic and customised spa programmes. There are six massage pavilions, shielded from the elements by bamboo screens, and adjoining alfresco showers. The Roman pools (for hydrotherapy) are encased in one-way glass windows that afford a splendid view of the landscaped gardens and green lawns. We presume it’s one-way. Angsana Spa treatments come with a hefty price tag, but there are attractive spa and ayurvedic packages that include room tariff, vegetarian meals and a couple of massages and spa treatments.
Across on the east coast, fringing the Bay of Bengal, the chic Spa Vyana at the plush Taj Fisherman's Cove, Chennai (formerly Madras) is a superb choice. Rooms have views of the sea and there are cottages as well. The spa offers a vast array of therapies and options from thalassotherapy (utilising seawater) and hydrotherapy to hot stones, massage, wraps and facials. There is a suite for couples to enjoy their treatments together followed by a long soak surrounded by scented candles. The Spa Vyana also offers video games and movies for children to help you plunge into the oils and unguents, undistracted. Just opened is a brand new spa at The Park in Chennai, the latest from this fast-expanding Indian boutique-and-business chain. Park hotels offer central locations with designer twists and relaxing decor and ambience.
However it is in the deep south, in Kerala, the state called “God’s Own Country”, that spas and ayurveda really come into their own. The Taj group runs some interesting properties here but one to check is the Taj Garden Retreat at Kumarakom, straddling the backwaters. This is an elegant and spacious retreat well located for tours. Another quiet option is the Taj Garden Retreat, Thekkady.
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| Tharavad house Coconut Lagoon/ photo: hotel |
The Taj Malabar on Willingdon Island, Cochin, runs dedicated ayurvedic treatments at its stylish Taj Spa villa, as well as two beauty rooms. Get primped and primed while gazing into the blue of its infinity pool, which merges into a sea view often peppered with frolicking dolphins. The two-century-old Malabar House Fort Cochin, with its 17 quaint rooms and suites featuring antique furniture and propah four-poster beds, also serves up lip-smacking Mediterranean and South Indian dishes. The house speciality is kalari, which uses medicinal oils in a form of massage developed from kalarippayat, one of the oldest martial art forms in Asia. It improves circulation and can alleviate headaches, back pain and arthritis.
The Marari Beach, run by the fast-expanding Casino Group at Mararikulam, Kerala, is spread over 25 expansive acres of seafront sand and garden. The 52 cottages are positioned to afford maximum privacy and space. At the private and upscale Coconut Lagoon (you can only access it by boat), run by the same group at Kumarakom, there’s a sense of style and tradition in the construction of the Heritage Bungalows and Heritage Mansions set in verdant lawns criss-crossed by canals and waterways. The resort has fine spa facilities and treatments and is an excellent jump-off point for backwater cruises. This is a resort that has very much set the pace.
There are more Ayurvedic delights at The Leela Kovalam Beach Resort in Kerala, this time of a more godly nature. Divya – meaning divine light – contrasts the old and the new, offering traditional medicines and panchakarma therapies alongside a modish massage centre. The spa programmes aim to help guests de-stress, detox or refresh, and run from one to a lengthy 28 days. The award-winning Somatheeram near Kovalam is a popular name for ayurvedic treatment. The resort comprises 45 cottages constructed on 18 acres of landscaped hillside, with pleasant views out over the sea. Somatheeram is a dedicated ayurveda sanctuary with a large new stand-alone Ayurveda Centre run by a battalion of skilled therapists. Treatments run from upwards of just US$5 and weeklong packages with stay and treatment are from US$847 up.
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| Leela Kovalam/ photo: hotel |
Further up the hills in the green tea estates and jungles surrounding Periyar Lake and its elephants is Casino’s Spice Village. It’s back to basics here but in comfort. As the hotel likes to point out, “Airconditioning? Unnecessary,” and “Piped music is no substitute for birdsong.” You get the drift. There are 52 cottages set in eight generous acres of hillside.
The Kayaloram Lake Resort on Vemband Lake, near Alleppey has just four wooden bungalows with tile floors and coir rugs. These are traditional tharavad houses, revived and set to a new purpose. The place is all dark teakwood. The therapies include gentle massages and panchkarma, with its vigorous enemas. Get prepared. In Thekkady, take a break from elephant-spotting and lake cruises to enjoy some spa treatments at the picturesque stone-cottage Aranya Nivas. There is a small pool as well. The hotel offers numerous tour options in and around the scenic Thekkady area.
And at Tiruvananthapuram (formerly Trivandrum), if you can pronounce it, the Surya Samudra Beach Garden offers traditional tharavad houses with 25 guestrooms. There is, however, a modern infinity pool set in granite along with an ayurvedic centre that offers, among other things, a “bone shaking” massage.
Well there it is. Shake a leg. Or rattle some bone.
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