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| White Sand Beach/ photo: Verghese |
ON A budget? Looking to clean out the bank? Need a full body tan in a hurry? Like to leave your footprints on a genuine picture postcard beach? In Boracay anything goes. The hottest, crispest, best white sand beach in the Philippines – a Disneyland for grownups – is home to wall-to-wall pampering, down-the-hatch cocktails and all-night partying. Chill out on the beach all afternoon then hit the clubs, bars and discos until dawn. Wake up at noon and do it all over again. In between, eat whatever takes your fancy, swim, surf, dive, snorkel or simply unwind at your Boracay resort or spa. Dive into this Boracay resort review and island guide.
Flights to Boracay
The trip starts at either the old Domestic Airport or the Philippine Airlines (PAL) terminal in Manila. It is important to let your taxi driver know which terminal to take you to, as the PAL terminal only services PAL aircraft and passengers, while the Domestic Airport handles everyone else. The procedure is the same at both airports. You show your ticket at the entrance and pass through an x-ray machine before proceeding to the check-in counter. If you are carrying film cameras and spare rolls, it's best to arrive early for your flight and have your camera bag and equipment inspected visually, instead of passing them through the x-ray, which causes fogging on some film types.
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| The Big Blue/ photo: Jennifer Khong |
It’s best to wear comfortable clothes and shorts that don’t require a belt as you’ll be asked to remove all metal objects at the final security check before boarding. Shoes are OK but do remember that you’ll be landing on a beach, albeit one of the best beaches in Asia, and might want to keep those sneakers dry.
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The island resort of Boracay is roughly a one-hour flight from Manila. So who flies to the best beach in the Philippines? Major carriers are South East Asian Airlines (SEAIR), Philippine Airlines and Asian Spirit. All three fly daily with about 30 runs between them during the course of the day. Depending on the airline you choose, you will either fly to Caticlan or Kalibo. Kalibo, with a hardtop runway, is used mainly by Philippine Airlines, which operates jets, while Caticlan has a rough strip and is serviced by SEAIR and Asian Spirit propeller aircraft.
Most visitors prefer to fly to Caticlan because of the much shorter travel time to Boracay itself: the land transfer from Kalibo takes up to three hours, while it could be as short as 40 minutes from Caticlan including the brief banca (catamaran) ride. Even if you are nervous about flying in small aircraft, the shorter travel time may be a clincher. Flight fares range from 5,000 to 6,000 Philippine pesos (US$1=P45).
If you are flying SEAIR and are booked on a small 19-seat plane, both you and your baggage will be weighed to make sure that the weight is evened out. This isn't necessary with SEAIR's larger aircraft. This done, you will progress to the terminal fee counter to pay P200. After passing through a second x-ray machine, you reach the departure area. (You are well advised to have your breakfast before going to the airport – the food in the departure lounge is really not recommended.)
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| Powder white sand |
SEAIR's Dornier 328 averages about 35 minutes to Caticlan. From the airport walk or rent a tricycle (or "trike"; about P40), to the jetty port. This will take only five or 10 minutes. At the jetty, your bags will be inspected again. Terminal fees and ferry fare come to P39.50. The boats aren't lookers, but they are safe and reliable and subject to regular inspections by the port authorities. Tourists are very well taken care of on Boracay. Check with your agent or resort that your booking includes transfers to and from Caticlan. These usually make the transition more convenient, if a smidgen dearer.
Getting around Boracay Island
The ferry makes three stops on the beach at established boat stations. As you will get wet when you exit the boat, make sure you're wearing light sandals. Generally speaking, hotels are arranged in clusters around the three stations. Station Three, close to most of the island's budget accommodation in the south, is also near the best shopping areas. This end of the beach is also the quieter with more cosy resorts and restaurants.
Station Two (near the centre of White Beach) is where the action is – most of the island's best food outfits and bars are in this area. Here you can also find D'Mall, the island's shopping mecca with anything from beauty products to kinky underwear. Station One is closest to many of Boracay's most upmarket resorts farther north along the same strip. This part of the beach has the finest sand and is also where the famous sea-sculpted Willy's Rock is to be spied. You haven’t been to Boracay if you don’t bring home a photo with this rock in the background.
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| Beach volleyball/ photo: Verghese |
Getting around is a breeze. The two main options are walking along the beach or by trike. The main road runs parallel to the beach – about 15 to 25 metres from the shore, depending on where you are. But then again, with a beach like Boracay's, who wants to be in a tricycle on concrete? An interesting feature of Boracay's sand is that it's so fine it doesn't get hot even in the mid-afternoon sun. From the Station One end, it takes about 15 minutes on foot to D'Mall. Along the way you'll pass a number of restaurants serving just about anything you can imagine.
Boracay Food and Dining
Boracay offers everything from fine dining to Filipino turo-turo or street-side food stalls. Let's start at the Station One end. The best resort restaurants are those at Fridays, Seawind, Waling-Waling and Escondido. These resorts all serve Continental fare with some contemporary dishes thrown in, save for Escondido, which specialises in crabs and prawns – arguably the best on the island. The Boracay Crab House quickly gained popularity for its Escondido Crab and Prawn dishes. Be prepared to fork out P1,000-P2,000 for lunch or dinner at any of these places. You may also want to check out Real Coffee and Tea House for breakfast and the island's best brownies and cookies.
Towards the middle of the beach and Station Two you'll find Aria, Gasthoff and Mc Sandro. These establishments are all in the D'Mall area but are worlds apart in terms of taste and style. Aria is an Italian outfit serving contemporary dishes alongside traditional ones. The menu and selection evolve constantly, according to Chef Gino who regularly comes up with new dishes. Don't miss the salads and specials for the day. Aria has a wood fired oven for pizzas, while focaccia bread is baked on order (it takes about two minutes in the oven). A meal for two will set you back around P1,500, including a bottle of wine.
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| Escondido: relaxed choice |
How about a taste of Greece? Try some gyros (a mince meat pita sandwich) or saganaki (fried Greek cheese) at Zuzuni and enjoy its cosy ambience.
Mc Sandro serves traditional Filipino fare with a modern twist. Try their adobo (pork or beef cooked in vinegar and soy sauce) and their seafood platter. Typically, the food is a bit heavy on fatty ingredients and big on rice. A meal for two comes at about P800. Gasthoff is popular for its baby back ribs, the house specialty. The ribs are simmered with special ingredients for about an hour and then cooked for ten minutes in a secret sauce. Here, nearly 100 kilograms a day are consumed in ribs alone. Don't miss the spicy crab, cooked in chilli and coconut milk, either. Dinner for two will cost around P1,000. For a Mexican experience, complete with fresh salsa, try Mañana. The Triple Taco Platter with its four tomato sauces is a good choice. A meal for two and a couple of beers will come to about P800.
A new addition to the island’s many food establishments is the Bamboo Lounge. Recently relocated from farther afield, the restaurant gives Boracay beachside lounging a new twist. The bar sports a number of modern and traditional cocktails, which include sangria, oyster saké shooters, and the signature “bamboojito”. The menu has a wide selection of comfort food, perfect for sobering up a little before hitting the sack. Happy hour officially starts at 5.30pm, though this does get juggled around a bit if you happen to arrive early. It ends promptly at 8pm. The dining area is nothing new on the island – low tables and pillows for seats, which make nodding off a danger. A meal and drinks for two will set you back around P1,500.
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| Boracay Mandala spa: soothing |
In the mood for a Spanish experience? Check out Dos Mestizos (tel: [63-36] 288-6789). With a menu comprising exclusively Spanish fare, everything originates from the chef’s own family recipes. Try the sixteen tapas selection dish if you’re feeling indecisive. The house specialty, paella is available in three serving sizes to cover all appetites. Operating hours are from 11am to midnight, or until the last customer leaves.
Boracay Bars and Nightlife
Nightlife centres around three bars: Cocomangas, Pier One and Summer Place. Pier One, the largest in terms of floor area, draws a mix of both locals and tourists. A nice thing about this bar is that it's right on the beach, so you can stretch out on loungers while waiting for the party to pick up. The dance floor is lit up in black light giving those on the floor a groovy glow. A comfortable loft provides a great venue for listening to the lively music. Summer Place draws a mostly European crowd with a trickle of locals. The bar's ambience is oriented towards chilling out rather than dancing, but wild nights erupt spontaneously, especially on Fridays and Saturdays when ladies have been known to take to the bar tops for a little freestyle bump and grind.
At D’Mall, Hey Jude! is a great place for a nightcap or a healthy dinner. The quirky concoctions from its bar are definite crowd pleasers. Cocomangas, the island’s oldest and most happening place, draws a mix of both locals and tourists. Offerings at the bar include house cocktails served in signature jam jars. You will want to take it slow swigging down these tasty concoctions as they can creep up on you. Also try the melts and pizzas. For a more sedate evening, check out the beachfront chill-out area. The entire strip of sand is littered with patches like this and most beach resorts put out loungers and tables for afternoon relaxing and evening dining.
Boracay Resort Guide
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| Nami breakfasts with a view |
Whether you want a Boracay resort in the midst of the action or a quiet spot, the options are endless. Diving head first onto the beach paradise scene is Shangri-La’s Boracay Resort and Spa. Set in the north Boracay, Shangri-La is secluded, small and unashamedly luxurious. Thatched villas creep down the rocky hillside to 350 metres of secluded white sand. Rooms start at 60sq m and villas range up to a generous 220sq m, including a private lap pool, outdoor shower, and a pergola for alfresco dining. Don’t let the beach seduce all your time – save some for the sprawling CHI, the spa, set in its own spa village. Grab yourself a private villa for the day and dodge the midday rays with an hour-long treatment. This level of luxury may be unrivalled in Boracay, but so is the price.
Discovery Shores Boracay – an expansive affair with 88 rooms and a spa – might blow the budget but is well worth every penny. The suites at this resort are spacious, ranging up to 122sq m with showers looking onto small gardens. The one and two-bedroom suites even have their own outdoor Jacuzzi. It has free Wireless access for guests, a children’s lounge, and a complete range of water sports activities. End the day at the Mandala Spa.
ONEMGM Boracay offers 88 top-drawer rooms and suites and guests may opt for a Villa, Mansion House or Summer House. The hotel can work as a Boracay conference resort after a fashion if you must cart the whole office across but does equally well as a wedding venue or a family-friendly Boracay resort escape. There are two outdoor swimming pools and one Jacuzzi.
If you are so inclined, a comfortable wallet-buster is the Nami Private Villas resort at the very tip of the beach (Station One end). Staff strive to satisfy every whim and villas are spread out to maximise privacy. Bathtubs have magnificent ocean views and the immaculately maintained rooms feature exquisite hardwood furniture. Don't miss the champagne breakfast – it's a great way to start off the day.
Closer to Station One you'll find Fridays Boracay. The resort, open since 1982, has one of the island's best restaurants with a Continental menu. Try the flavourful braised lamb shank, but remember to order ahead since it takes about four hours to prepare. Rooms have a rustic, native theme but come with thoughtful details and all mod-cons such as hot and cold water, air-conditioning and cable television. This 40-room resort occupies a nice stretch of beach with mature coconut trees. Premier Rooms come with king-size beds, a 27-inch TV and complimentary in-room coffee and tea-making facilities. Plush Premier Suites offer 80sq m of space in a circular setting with private verandahs, soaking tubs and floor-to-ceiling windows. At a pinch, Fridays can rustle up a venue and facilities for a small meeting for up to 40 persons.
Waling-Waling Beach Hotel is a Thai-inspired resort with a bit more of an industrial feel than Fridays, although its ornate woodwork makes up for all the concrete. Chill out in one of the huts in front of the resort or nurse a beer while enjoying the riot of colours at sunset. Rooms at the back of the resort, recessed in the trees, are appointed as tastefully as their beachfront counterparts.
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| ONEMGM Boracay/ photo: hotel |
The Boracay Beach Resort is set smack in the middle of the action. Despite the bustling location, the sleek, clean architecture feels spacious and serene. Those in Boracay for the party scene can’t go wrong staying here – only steps away from the island’s most happening clubs. Perhaps the resort’s most distinguishing feature is its alfresco dining and bar where even the most intoxicated tourists can’t miss the two mermaids that hold up the roof.
Le Soleil de Boracay Hotel is a Mediterranean-style resort with native materials in airy colours. It has a relaxed ambience. Rooms have a view of the resort's new freshwater pool and its ornate landscaping. Further down the beach you'll find Escondido, one of the better non-beachfront resorts and situated behind Cocomangas Shooter Bar. Experience a different, quieter side to the island a convenient distance from its wildest parties. A relatively new outfit, Escondido is popular for its location and great food. The restaurant features a range of crab dishes in home-cooking style.
This secluded Boracay resort has 24 rooms, which give it a warm, exclusive feel. Le Soleil rooms are furnished sparingly, and appear uncluttered and light. The staff members are all smiles. A native hut in front of the resort makes for a great massage venue. Who needs the beach? Well, it's only a three-minute trot away anyway for your daily dose of sun and sand. This is a good no-worries option.
At the other end of the beach you'll find 357 Boracay. Its native-inspired modern amenities have captured the attention of its guests almost as much as the gorgeous white powdery sand right outside its doors. Rooms offer all the usual amenities: cable television, hot and cold water and that tropical beach must-have, air-conditioning. Budget travellers can try Orchids Resort at the far end of Station Three. The resort architecture is decidedly Filipino with furniture made from local materials. Air-conditioned and fan-cooled rooms are available.
When the owners of Hey Jude!, one of the island’s more popular bars decided to expand with a nice set of rooms they did everyone a favour. Guests can now enjoy the resto-bar’s fine menu only a few steps from their room.
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| Boracay Hills resort |
Simple local styles define Boracay Tropics Resort Hotel, a family friendly resort in Station Two with 50 guestrooms and cabanas. Just a stumble away from White Beach the place has a bustling feel, but clean modern touches make it a pleasant spot to stay in. The hotel has a spa, nail salon and pool, with set dinner menus by candlelight at the Tropic Café.
Another great deal is The Blue Mango Inn, right next to 357 Boracay. This little four-room joint sports a fashionable restaurant and four air-conditioned rooms with cable television and hot and cold water for your shower. The resort also offers WiFi connection for workaholics who need to bring their office with them. For non-guests, you'll have to order something from the restaurant to get Internet access.
Don't like the beach and want some isolation? Boracay Hills is a comfy bed-and-breakfast-type resort inland, about 10 minutes from the beach by trike. Unique touches give it a personal flair far from the beach crowd and blaring speakers playing every known Bob Marley track. Surfside Resort and Spa near Station Three is one of the better spa resorts for those on a budget. The in-resort spa offers a full range of services. For those tired limbs, you may want to try its relaxation package, a one-hour session in the spa including steam sauna, a dry sauna and a full hour in a Jacuzzi. Or go for the "Boracay Memories" treatment including a full hour of the steam sauna, dry sauna, and the Jacuzzi, followed by the spa's signature Boracay massage and a face massage. All for US$75, and resort guests may avail of discounts of up to 50 percent.
If you're willing to splash out a bit more for serious pampering, check out the Mandala Spa & Villas for the quintessential spa experience on Boracay island. This Boracay spa's day packages are perfect for rejuvenating tired limbs and clearing imbalances caused by nights of partying and afternoons of sinew-stretching shopping. This Boracay spa resort accepts walk-in customers for the day spa treatments, ranging from massages to exotic wraps.
Zuzuni Restaurant and Boutique Hotel is one of Boracay’s youngest establishments. With only four air-conditioned rooms, guests are guaranteed personal service and spared the usual wait for room service. Free Wireless Internet access is available too, and the Greek restaurant is fantastic.
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| Boracay Orchids Resort |
Mango Ray, a ten-room deal smack in the middle of White Beach is only a few steps away from D’Mall. All rooms are fully air-conditioned and come with cable TV, and bathrooms have hot water taps and a bathtub. The Boracay Regency Hotel with its 195 rooms is also host to a convention centre that can accommodate events of up to 650 people. All rooms have Broadband access and the hotel’s WiFi coverage extends all the way to the beach for deck-chair surfing. The beachfront, incidentally, is the most spread out along White Beach. Rooms are fitted with local materials.
Proving that there’s more to a holiday than beach-bumming, Nirvana Resort is set back about a five-minute walk from the sand. Accommodation includes economy, standard, condominium and villa-type rooms. The basic economy rooms are similar to old-style bamboo huts in appearance and feel, but that’s about as far as their similarities go. They all have air-conditioning, hot and cold water from the tap, a minibar and a hotpot for tea or coffee – no TV though. Condominiums come with one or two rooms while all villas have two rooms each. Standard rooms come with TV, air-conditioning and hot and cold water.
Paradise Bay Beach and Watersport Resort is a good choice for the adventurous. Activities on offer include kite-surfing, parasailing, banana boat rides and water-skiing. The resort is managed by a German couple and set against a small bay on the northeastern side of the island. If you’re looking for a little more privacy than the norm, this is the place for you. Rooms have the usual amenities and each comes with a personal safe and a fan, should you wish to shun the air-conditioning in favour of the cool sea breeze. There’s no in-room Internet access, but you can surf on their computers for a fee.
Opened way back in 1989, Club Panoly still holds its own against the island’s newer establishments, though it does show signs of age. On the brighter side, service is streamlined and efficient thanks to its team of experienced staff. All 95 rooms come with a safe, while deluxe and suite accommodations have Internet connectivity at an extra cost. The resort’s food service is excellent, with selections ranging from local delicacies to Singaporean dishes. Nights need not be spent outside the resort either; groove to the beats at its Café Havana.
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| Parasail into the sunset |
Paradise Garden lives up to its name. Built around a massive 15,000sq m immaculate garden, accommodations range from modest studio types to four-bedroom family suites. Not in the mood for the beach? Take a dip in one of the resort’s three pools. All rooms come with free Broadband Internet access.
La Reserve is a French-inspired retreat; an eclectic blend of first-class European standards and native flair. Airy architecture and funky murals spice up each guestroom. The resort’s 16 rooms are split into three standard rooms, 10 doubles and three suites. All rooms have hot and cold water from the tap, a safe and air-conditioning. The resort also has its own backup generator in case of power outages.
You’ll find just the bare necessities at Blue Waves. It’s basically a big beach house, its rooms equipped with a comfortable bed, hot and cold water and a telly with cable to nod off to. Bring the family, kids under seven stay for free.
At the Pearl of the Pacific you’ll enjoy everything that makes Station One the best location on this strip of heaven. Finer sand, less human traffic and distance from all the party noise. You won’t be too far away though – a four minute trike ride will deposit you at the Cocomangas bar. Request a room near the beach or by the pool. Rooms way up the hill are very private, but you may regret the altitude after a night of tequila shooters and exotic cocktails.
A tribute to local taste and design, SeaWind Resort offers rooms and villas with a homey feel. The hardwood furniture makes the airy warm and welcoming, while gardens outside provide a colourful backdrop. No feeling of congestion here, unlike at many resorts in the area, which do tend to cram rooms into every conceivable bit of space. The forty rooms are well spaced out and cleverly positioned to maximise privacy.
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| Boracay bar, late night action |
Tucked away in its own little nook south of White Beach is Lorenzo Grand Villas. The Filipino inspired accommodations have air-conditioning, cable television, mini-bar, bathtub and balcony with a sea view. There are 16 superior and two premier rooms. If you’re looking for a tad more privacy than White Beach can offer, Lorenzo might be the place for you. It’s only five to ten minutes by trike to the sugar sands depending on where you’re headed, and you still have relatively easy access to the shopping and nightlife. Want to be closer to the beach? Check out Lorenzo South, this beachfront resort is situated near the southern tip of White Beach. The resort’s 24 suites are all air-conditioned and come with the usual accoutrements. Guests enjoy the privacy of an exclusive beach far from the wristwatch and sunglass vendors who frequent the more populated areas of the beach.
Well? What are you waiting for? Get wet and wild in Boracay.
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