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| Hokkaido's wide open spaces |
HOKKAIDO, in the far north of Japan, is an entertaining Asian winter playground that has, over the years, stamped itself firmly on the travel calendar. Say “ski” and the response will be “Sapporo”. While the snows, partying crowds and winter ice-carving carnivals will not disappoint, Hokkaido Island is also an attractive summer destination. There are spas, hikes, rides, scenic vistas at every turn and a dramatic, scenic coastline. In winter, however, the place really comes into its own. For a true taste of Japan skiing and white powder, Hokkaido ski resorts and hotels offer an attractive range for all wallets.
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As Japan’s fifth largest city, Sapporo has grown by leaps and bounds. The city’s population was all of seven in 1857! Sapporo Breweries, the oldest beer company in Japan, set up shop here in 1877 and runs the Sapporo Beer Museum. This was renovated in 2004 and has developed into one of the city’s major draws, with official “Hokkaido Heritage” recognition. Alas the tours are in Japanese but English audio tapes are available. The 12-block Odori Park, where much of the Sapporo Snow Festival action takes place, runs ramrod straight through the city dividing it into clearly demarcated north and south districts. The historic Clock Tower is another must-see Sapporo sight. It was built in 1878 and also houses a small museum now. Also check out the old Hokkaido Government Building and pop into Otaru City for a romantic stroll along the scenic Otaru Canal.
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| Hokkaido blooms/ photo: Charlain Lim |
Japan Railways (tel: [81-11] 2227-111) is one way to head up north. The Hokutosei sleeper train does the Ueno (Tokyo) to Sapporo run in 16 hours. There are two daily departures in each direction. The Elm limited express sleeper also connects Sapporo and Ueno in 16 hours. The service operates during the high season and there is one departure in each direction per day. From Osaka the Twilight Express does the journey in 21 hours with one departure each day. Sapporo’s New Chitose Airport handles over 120 daily landings and departures with direct services to several international destinations. It is roughly 35km from downtown and the 30-minute run by rapid transit train from the airport to JR Sapporo station will cost just over Y1,000 (US$1 = Y117.1). The 80-minute bus journey into town from the airport costs roughly the same.
December is a pleasant time to visit and a White Christmas is a likely bet. January is the coldest month and headgear and snow boots are recommended. The coldest temperature apparently recorded on the island is minus 23 degrees Celsius (on 18 January, 1945). The annual, seven-day Sapporo Snow Festival (www.snowfes.com/english) takes place in early February. (The 2008 event will be the 59th snow festival.)
It is an event worth working into your calendar, as are views of the “petrified” iced-up trees in the gardens of the Hokkaido prefectural government building. The snow festival is celebrated at the main festival site, Odori Park, as well as the grounds at Satoland Farm Park, with mazes and slides, and Susukino, featuring hundreds of huge ice monuments and carvings with international teams in attendance.
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| Dawn breaks over wintry Hokkaido |
By April the weather is warming up but it is still possible to ski in the higher reaches. Skunk cabbages (white flowers, not vegetables!) are all the rage this time of year and in late April or early May the cherry blossoms erupt accompanied by clicking cameras and cooing honeymooners. While in Otaru, spare some time for a wander down nostalgia lane. Explore old buildings and warehouses now serving as snazzy restaurants, glassworks and museums. Down in Noboribetsu, the spa town, there’s a large bear park, but animal lovers may want to steer well clear, as animal welfare experts have criticised the depressing conditions the bears are kept in.
Hokkaido Ski Resort Areas
The Sapporo Kokusai Ski Area (tel: [81-11] 598-4560, November to May, www.sapporo-kokusai.co.jp/ski2006/e/index_e.html) offers some of the region’s best and biggest ski grounds with amazingly easy access just an hour from Sapporo, and some excellent ski runs.
There are seven courses here ranging from advanced to beginner and snowboarders can have a go as well. English-speaking instructors are available but it is best for your hotel to call and arrange for this well in advance (one-on-one instruction for two hours, Y13,000). An adult all-day lift and gondola pass is about Y4,600 while students fork out just Y2,000. Younger kids get in for Y1,000 and under-sixes for free.
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| Piste at Teine Highlands |
The Teine Highland ski area (tel: 610-555, November-April, www.welcome.city.sapporo.jp/english/ski/sapporo.html) is a popular draw. Several women’s events were held here during the 1972 Sapporo Winter Olympics. The location, about a 40-minute car drive from Sapporo, is convenient, and there are more ski runs than you could shake a stick at. JR Buses also ply from the Miyanosawa subway station up to Teine Highland. The 4,000m “Natural Course” is ideal for families and the less intrepid. At the other end of the scale, the North Wall offers a maximum gradient of 36 degrees. Snowboarding is permitted in several areas but not on the North Wall. The views are spectacular as you progress up the ski lift.
The Teine Olympia ski area (tel: 681-3191, December to April) offers a variety of courses. This area is also located around 40 minutes from Sapporo. Shirakaba is ideal for beginners while the Shirakaba Roman course provides a splendid spectacle at night as the white birch trees are lit up. Japan Rail buses from the Miyanosawa subway station take just over 20 minutes to get here. It is worth noting that there’s fairly generous car parking space as well.
Mount Moiwa is a popular sightseeing attraction and the Mt Moiwa ski slope (tel: 581-0914, December to March) has options for beginners and advanced skiers. There’s no snowboarding here. Mt Moiwa has a viewing platform and eatery at the top from where excellent night-time views of Sapporo can be had. The restaurant atop the hill advertises itself as a quality-dining establishment but beware, it’s really a well-meaning cafeteria with vending machines.
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| Just as in Europe |
For die-hard snowmobile nuts, Snowmobile-Land Sapporo (tel: 661-5355 during working hours, e-mail: info@snowmobilelandsapporo.com or www.snowmobilelandsapporo.com/website/index.html) is 20 minutes from downtown Sapporo.
Offering a fleet of snowmobiles and tours ranging from 30 minutes to two hours, it sells itself as “the largest snowmobile tour company outside North America”. The popular, one-hour “hot pick” course package goes for Y10,000, including rental of the winter wear, the practice course and the tour. The “cool pick” course costs Y13,500, while the two-hour course is Y14,500. The courses are open in winter, from December until mid-March, depending on snowfall. Car parking is free but there are just 26 spots available.
A popular all-in-one ski getaway choice is the Rusutsu Resort (tel: 463-331, www.rusutsu.co.jp/english). Rusutsu offers 37 different courses on three mountains, both for beginners and advanced skiers and snowboarders. There are also a “Kids Park” slope for children and, from December to March, a day-care centre for children from the age of one to pre-schoolers. There are various accommodation options, and an assortment of shops and restaurants providing a destination within a destination. Also on the menu is dog sledding through the snowfields. One-day ski tickets run from Y3,800 to Y5,500, including a lunch package. Snowmobiling is also a popular pastime in this area.
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| Hyosetsu No Mon/ photo: restaurant |
Sapporo Nightlife and Dining
There’s a fair bit of good-natured drunken après-ski available in Sapporo. The options range from live music to bars, pubs and noodle joints where steaming ramen will warm the bones. At the American Melody House (tel: [81-11] 512-4388) in Liberty Building, guests will have to face the music as staff members serenade them with all manner of instruments from flute and violin to the piano. The Emperor (tel: 531-7171) is a nightclub offering a cabaret with top names and shows. The place is crawling with beaming, and rather comely, hostesses.
Sapporo Club Heights (tel: 531-1821) in Tohokuraku Building, is another large cabaret establishment with a reasonably decent reputation. It’s been around for over 30 years so it must have something going for it apart from the obligatory bevy of sinuous hostesses. At Champagne (tel: 200-1424), enjoy a quiet drink and savour the views of Odori Park. A glass canopy offers views of the night sky too. If the karaoke urge is upon you, head to Kuro-to-Shiro (tel: 512-8991) in Daimatsu Building, which has on its lists over 40,000 selections.
For dining options, scout out the Susukino area. This is a humungous entertainment district with restaurants, karaoke joints, pachinko parlours and saucy corners for sizzled salarymen. Try the 130-year-old Azumazushi (tel: 261-7161, www.azumazushi.com) for fresh seafood and sushi, or Gyuno-ishizaki (tel: 511-8741, see Sapporo Guide) for shabu-shabu and sukiyaki. Ebikanigassen (tel: 210-0411) does more than 70 types of prawn and crab dishes. Kushidoribangaichi (tel: 531-1818, see Sapporo Guide), which takes orders until 1.30am, offers grilled dishes and Hyosetsu no mon (tel: 521-3046, www.hyousetsu.co.jp) offers king crabs.
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| Parasailing along the coast |
Still, no visit to Japan is ever complete without a visit to a steaming ramen noodle parlour and Ramen Higuma (tel: 518-2423) will not hurt the wallet with its Y800 to Y900 servings. Give it a whirl. And if you really want to roll up your sleeves and dive in, squeeze into the narrow alley of Ramen Yokocho where there’s nothing but small steaming noodle shops all the way down.
Downtown choices may include Uoyaiccyo Tokeidai-Dori Ten (tel: 232-0343) in the Hotel Hokke Club Sapporo, which is one of five Uoyaiccho restaurants in the city and does seafood, as well as sushi and rice dishes, Yamatoya Honten (tel: 241-6353) for seafood, and Sekkatei (tel: 251-1366) near JR Sapporo station for crabs.
The Sapporo Beer Garden (tel: 742-1531) next to the brewery is a welcoming red brick building with a constantly changing ambience year to year. Grab a draft and choice Japanese nibbles. Of course you’ll have to fill up at the end of it all with some sushi so, if the feet are willing, wander down to Sushizen (tel: 612-0068). For something different pop into the renowned Ishiya Chocolate Factory (www.shiroikoibito.ishiya.co.jp) for a salivating tour and a choccie nibble. Their cookies are a major draw with visitors to Sapporo. There's even a chocolate museum and self-styled chefs can have a go making their own creations - under careful supervision of course. Just don't eat too much. For top-of-the-line, ask for the "shiro koibito" cookies (literally "white beloved ones").
Sapporo Spa Areas
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| Sapporo Snow Festival |
Another Sapporo attraction is the spa experience and there are some stunning options available. The well-known Jozankei Hot Springs (tel: [81-11] 598-2012, www.jyozankei.com), open 24 hours daily, is perhaps the best place to commence your spa circuit. It is just an hour from the city centre and has a prized location in a lovely gorge with a picture-postcard waterfall as well. What more could you ask for? The spa is reputed to cure ailments ranging from gastric disorders to rheumatism. There are a number of hotels to choose from in the area, should you want to stay over.
Noboribetsu (tel: [81-143] 843-311, www.noboribetsu-spa.jp/en/index.htm) is the largest onsen (spa area) and is very popular with holidaymakers and locals alike. The waters are bristling with all manner of minerals and the source of this rich thermal supply is the charmingly named Hell Valley (Jigokudani). The area offers some devilishly good sightseeing and walks. There are several hotels in the area to choose from should you extend your visit to an overnight stay. Noribetsu city also boasts a decent aquarium and an Edo-era recreation complex complete with period costumes and the like. Want to be a samurai? Drop in. The Noboribetsu Grand Hotel (tel: [81-143] 842-101, www.nobogura.co.jp/english/index.html) is a comfortable and modern option. The hotel prides itself in having Japan’s only “full-scale, dome-shaped Roman bath” and also has a “garden-style, open-air bath”, as well as a “family bath”.
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| Rusutsu Resort North Wing |
Park Side Spa (tel: [81-11] 512-3456; open 11m to 1am) at the Arc Hotel, Sapporo, (hop off at the Nakajima Koen Station) is a pampering option. The bathing area is well maintained and classy and the waters are apparently drawn from a natural hot spring that flows beneath the hotel. There is massage on offer as well. Bashful bathers will be pleased to learn that there are separate male and female facilities. Entrance is Y1,800, or go the whole hog for just Y3,000.
Shogetsu Grand Hotel (tel: [81-11] 598-2231, www.mitsuikanko.co.jp/english/map/m_htm/sho.htm), on the banks of the Toyohira River, enjoys a splendid tree-clad location. The hotel itself offers charming views of the surrounds. Inside things are distinctly Japanese-style with tatami (woven straw mats) in the rooms. You sleep on futons on the floor but there is no skimping on style or luxury. An attractive feature at this hotel is the generous indoor public bath that offers lovely views. There is also an outdoor bath. Spend a moment at the spectacular crater waters of Lake Toya (close to Noboribetsu). Apart from the agreeable scenery, visitors will enjoy the hot springs and ryokan (Japanese inns) dotting the rim of the lake. The waters here are famous for their therapeutic qualities.
Sapporo Adventure
Hokkaido possesses some amazing natural terrain and several companies offer on-the-edge adventure breaks. For anything ranging from rafting and mountain biking to rock climbing, kayaking and more, try NOASC (tel: [81-136] 231-688, e-mail: info@noasc.com or www.noasc.com/index.php?lang=en). The company, which operates in three Hokkaido locations, has, thank heavens, English-speaking instructors and guides so it is unlikely that you’ll find yourself skiing downhill by kayak. Adventure equipment is available too so just bring yourself.
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| One way to get around |
For river runs, Riva-Up (tel: [81-11] 742-6653, www.phoenix-c.or.jp/~riva-up) does guided canoe tours of the Toyohira River. There are lessons for starters and more adventurous options too.
At the end of the day, there’s something for everyone in Hokkaido, be it families, romancing couples or boisterous singles in search of après-ski and a tall lager. Check out packages too as ski holidays are a major industry here. It is likely your national airline will have an all-inclusive ski holiday deal on offer. This will work out a lot cheaper than buying hotel and air ticket separately. Do check out the Sapporo Convention Bureau website, as well as the Sapporo Tourist Association (www.sta.or.jp/english or www.welcome.city.sapporo.jp), before you get your ski gear, hang-glider and canoe, and head out.
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