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| Boudhnath Stupa/ photo: Jane McLean |
MY SEATBELT is fastened, seatback upright, and the tray table safely folded. I peer out the window. Glistening snow-capped peaks rise up to tickle a blanket of clear blue sky, light fluffy clouds swaddle the mountains. I spot a Sherpa, I think – a tiny ant-like figure on an awesome rock face. I wake up with a start and look out. It’s raining, it’s dark, and all I can see is the flashing light on the wing of the Nepal Airlines B-757 shuddering its way to Kathmandu.
Nepal’s national airline is adequate, but basic, and packed to the gunnels with loud and excitable passengers. Crammed overhead lockers threaten to spill their contents at all times, seats are faded, some frayed, and there’s the odd scrawl of graffiti on trays. Don’t bet on getting that pre-ordered vegetarian meal. Despite these amusing foibles, the service is friendly (unless you talk during the safety demonstration in which case you’ll get a stern telling off), and the captain frequently crackles across the intercom, describing the route, weather conditions and air traffic control issues.
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So, what’s the big deal about Nepal? Well, for one, it’s home to that great hulking 8,850-metre (29,035ft) beast of a mountain, Everest, not to mention seven more of the world’s 14 highest peaks, several of them over the magic 8,000m mark. Mt Everest was awarded seven extra feet in height following a detailed geological survey, involving placement of a GPS system on the peak. For the world’s mountaineers, Nepal is a veritable playground. And, yes, any Nepal guide will be stacked with adrenaline-pumping things to do like weaving around mountains in a sightseeing plane, hiking up to breathless heights, ripping down rapids in a raft, kayaking, canyoning, mountain biking and paragliding.
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| Hyatt Regency/ photo: hotel |
But it’s not only adventurers who will be happy campers in this landlocked nation. Nepal has a heady mix of religion, culture and architecture; more than enough to satisfy any curious soul. And you don’t even need to step foot outside the capital, Kathmandu. City of the gods, valley of temples, a living museum; call it what you will, but one thing is for sure. Visitors won’t be disappointed. Enjoy street life, shopping, hundreds of shrines and temples, and grand views of the surrounding peaks. Pack sturdy walking shoes, grab a camera and venture forth.
Politics, always heady, remains in flux, with the erstwhile Maoist guerrillas dropping their guns in favour of elected office and the more sedate corridors of government. The Maoists swept to power in April 2008 following elections on a platform of change and the elimination of the monarchy. They would like to develop the country rapidly and travellers may be among the first beneficiaries as tourism recovers. Despite sporadic street protests and demonstrations that maintain a dull background static, the Nepal Tourism Board finally has something to smile about.
Best foot forward then with our Kathmandu guide for the intrepid. Most visitors to Nepal tend to mix up their stay with a few days in Kathmandu and a trip perhaps to Pokhara, the Annapurna Circuit, Lumbini (the birthplace of Buddha), Sagarmatha (Everest) or Chitwan National Park. Kathmandu is a transit hub. But the city is a destination in itself. The Kathmandu Valley is an extraordinary feast, boasting seven cultural world heritage sites and a lot more in between. In the valley it’s said there are more temples than houses, more gods than people, and a festival 365 days of the year. The best known face of religion here is probably the Kumari, or Living Goddess, a child deity symbolising perfection and innocence.
There are indeed a staggering number of temples, shrines, pagodas, stupas – so many that you could walk the same streets for days and notice something different every time. And it’s not only the architecture, but the sights, the smells, the sounds that reveal the true spirit of this city. People are warm and welcoming. Monkeys and cows amble about temples, women in bright sarees haul mounds of straw up hillsides, Hindu funerals take place on the river, and kids haul up buckets of water from deep wells. Traffic grinds through jam-packed streets: tempos, motorcycles, scooters and the odd bulky trolley car, all battle for space.
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| Sadhu poses/ photo: Jane McLean |
Kathmandu has its share of problems. Urbanisation and overpopulation have highlighted issues like air pollution, water shortage, poverty and hygiene. Heritage conservation appears to have taken a back seat in the face of recent development. But that has not changed the essence of the city – yet.
Kathmandu guide to arrival, airport, getting around
Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan International Airport is a blend of brick and a bit of glass. It was virtually empty on the night I arrived save for a few immigration officers who manned tiny desks piled high with paper. All visitors to Nepal, apart from Indian nationals, need a visa to enter. If you haven’t already got one, you’ll need to fill out a brief form and hand over your passport, a passport photo and US$40 (for a single entry 60-day visa). It doesn’t take long, but the time it takes depends on the length of the queue. Free visas are given to those visiting Nepal for three days or less, and to nationals of China and SAARC countries (South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation). There is no charge for children under 10 years old. The Department of Immigration in Kathmandu will extend visas for 30 days for US$30. When travelling to and from Nepal make sure to reconfirm flights. Most of the big hotels have a travel desk and will do the reconfirmation for you.
Walking out of the airport is an exercise in blocking the ears (there are swarms of people hollering at the exit) and opening your eyes, (you’ll be looking for a taxi or a sign with your name on it). To save the hassle of negotiating taxi fares, organise transfers with a hotel beforehand. It’s the smoothest way in. The best cab option is a fixed-rate taxi run by the whimsically named Airport Queue Taxi Service, found right outside the arrivals hall. There are metered taxis too but you may need to still negotiate a rate before you get in. The airport is located east of the city about eight kilometres from the centre and a taxi should cost about 110 Nepalese rupees (US$1=NRs68).
Kathmandu sightseeing and getting around
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| Flowers at the market/ photo: Jane McLean |
A few of Kathmandu’s must-sees are within easy reach. Taxis can be hired for the day, or cars (with a driver) can be organised by hotels for however long you wish. Traffic may be manic during rush hour, but sit back and enjoy the ride. There’s much to see just by hanging your head out the window. You could even try a “tempo”, a three-wheeled taxi, in which you can tootle along for about NRs10 per 8km. Much of the city is flat – perfect for cycling. Hire a bike and take in all the sights (and the fumes) at street level.
Kathmandu Valley was once occupied by three different kingdoms that have left their imprint in three main cities surrounded by mountains. Kathmandu is the capital and the biggest of this historic urban confection. At the centre sits the Narayanhiti Royal Palace, which was until recently the sizeable (30 hectare) pink residence of King Gyanendra. Patan, south of Kathmandu, is the oldest city in the valley, founded in the third century BC. It was here that the Newari brick-and-wood style of architecture originated. There are more than 55 major temples in Patan all built around a grand total of 136 courtyards. It all makes for an impressive picture. And it’s as much an architectural wonder as a bustling place where you can sit and watch the world go by for hours.
The third city of Bhaktapur, known as the ‘City of Devotees’, is 14km east of Kathmandu. Traditionally, this area was home to mostly farmers. Bhaktapur has preserved much of its original structure, although many of the more decorated shrines were destroyed in an earthquake that hit the city in 1934. In comparison to Patan, the temples are less intricate, the carving more sparse, but Bhaktapur is a huge attraction nonetheless. Each of the three cities has a central palace or ‘Durbar’ Square, where the original palace was located.
Every Kathmandu guide will exhort you to head for Pashupatinath Temple, to the northeast of the city, considered one of the holiest sites for Hindus in Nepal. It is a UNESCO world heritage site and the pagoda is topped by a two tiered golden roof. Peak prayer times can get busy. The crowds start streaming in from 4am until 7am and from about 5pm to 7pm. On the many important days in the Hindu calendar, like Shivaratri in March, you’ll be hard-pressed to take a step anywhere near the temple as pilgrims flock to the area. Visit around 11am on a normal day and there’s much to see. Only Hindus are allowed inside the temple itself, but visitors can wander the grounds for NRs250. Around six years ago, the temple was hemmed in by residential houses, but they’ve since been razed and the land dedicated to Shiva.
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| Road to Nagarkot/ photo: Jane McLean |
Market stalls sell prayer beads and flowers, and saree-clad women wander among bored-looking cows and restless monkeys. The animals are fairly harmless though monkeys may take affront at snapping cameras and jutting lenses. Sadhus, or Hindu holy men, sit contemplatively on steps behind the temple, clothed in loincloths, adorned with white, red and yellow paint. Ragged children will pester you for handouts. Behind the temple is Bagmati River, a garbage-tip of muddy water. It is here that Hindu cremations are held.
The Royal Palace is smack bang in the middle of the city on Durbar Marg and is a good place to get your bearings. You can’t tour the palace, although you can catch a glimpse inside the gates. This might all change now that the King has been ousted. Durbar Marg is one of the main tourist drags in Kathmandu’s centre. Some of the more expensive shops, boutiques and restaurants are located on this stretch along with travel agents, coffee shops, bakeries and hotels.
On a hill about four kilometres from Kathmandu centre is the Buddhist Swayambhunath Stupa, also known as Monkey Temple. The place, unsurprisingly, is swarming with monkeys. This stunning stupa is typical of many others you’ll see throughout the city though on a much larger scale with a broad white dome, gilt spire and prayer flags fluttering in the breeze. You’ll need to pay NRs100 for the pleasure of seeing it close up. Steps – 360 of them – lead up to the main part of the temple. Just below the spire, the painted eyes of the Buddha Vairochana look out in all four directions. Apart from the charms of the temple, there is the view looking out over the whole valley. This is an excellent perch for a memorable sunset.
Boudhnath is the biggest Buddhist stupa in Nepal and is a Kathmandu landmark. It’s believed to have been built in 5AD. At the ground level are prayer wheels that release a mantra as they are spun. Rising from the centre is the spire (or harmika) with the all-seeing eyes on four sides. Surrounding the temple is a circular pedestrian lane with shops and restaurants. It’s a peaceful area for a quiet bit of contemplation.
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| Patan temples/ photo: Jane McLean |
Patan, also known as Lalitpur, is old. Very old. It’s a maze of little lanes, bustling streets and ancient architecture. Most of the monuments in the main square date back from the 16th century. Durbar Square in the centre of Patan is a great place for people-watching and market action. Choose one of the walk-up six-storey restaurants, order a coffee and sit on the rooftop. One of the hundreds of festivals could conveniently be in full throttle.
Thamel is backpacker central and, some say, the heart and soul of Kathmandu. Drumbeats emanate from pubs, live music belts out from cafes, motorcycles rev their engines, shoppers haggle, taxi-drivers yell for business and, everywhere, are cheap guesthouses, shops, stalls and restaurants. This is the place for cheap Kathmandu budget hotels and rock-bottom prices. In Thamel you might get flustered, but you won’t get bored. You can also change money, develop photos, surf the Internet, drink yourself stupid, book a trek, get a tattoo, get a massage, get pierced, and generally, get exhausted.
Northeast of Kathmandu, about an hour’s drive over potholed roads and up a steep winding hill, is Nagarkot, 2,175m above sea level. Tiny wooden shacks selling tea (as well as local beer) dot the hillside going up and as the road climbs ever higher, the treat of a view just gets better and better. Stretched out before your gob-smacked eyes is a blanket of grass and farmland, wheat and rice paddies, the sprawling cityscape of Kathmandu and mountains by the mile. Nagarkot is a popular place for couples as well as potential couples so if you’re looking to woo someone, this is the place to begin. On weekends and public holidays, the roads and teahouses can be busy. There are places to stay and a whole lot to do, especially if you’re into nature. Mountain bike up to Nagarkot if you must, but watch for cars, trucks and the side of the hill. The walks around the area are not too taxing.
Kathmandu shopping, souvenirs to brands
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| Time for a chat/ photo: Jane McLean |
Kathmandu shopping is all about souvenirs. Lots of them. Mind you don’t buy any handicrafts over a century old – these are termed ‘antique’ and taking them out of Nepal is illegal. For anything remotely antique you’ll need a certificate from the Department of Archaeology in Kathmandu (near the Supreme Court).
What else to buy? Even if you are not a fan of pashmina wool shawls (made from the fine inner fur of hardy Himalayan goats), that aunt of yours might appreciate something. If not a pashmina shawl or scarf, other local products include ‘thankas” (mystic scroll paintings), belts or wallets made from goatskin and water buffalo, ‘khukris’ (curved knives) used by the Ghurkhas, woollen carpets, ceramics, ‘lokta’ paper, embroidered bags and purses, sarees of all description, teas and spices. If you’re clever at bartering, or a bully, give it a go. Whatever the way, Kathmandu shopping is ridiculously cheap.
Durbar Marg and Thamel are the major spots for shopping in Kathmandu. On Durbar Marg you’ll find international clothing brands such as Benetton, Bossini, Giordano, Adidas and North Face. Don’t expect huge stores containing piles of Gucci or Louis Vuitton, although products such as Apple iPhones can be found if you look. Shoppers will be flummoxed by the amount of stuff on offer in Thamel from local handicrafts to woollen socks or hats, North Face sleeping bags, backpacks, ponchos, chess sets, books, embroidered shirts, jewellery, bags, and purses.
Other Kathmandu shopping hotspots are to be found in Patan’s or Kathmandu’s Durbar Squares and in the areas surrounding major tourist areas like Boudhnath. Or try the little lane right outside the Radisson Hotel in Lazimpat – it’s a peaceful place to browse if you need a break from the Thamel hoopla. In the stores here you’ll find the ubiquitous pashmina (prices start at around NRs1,000), embroidered cotton tops (from about NRs200), t-shirts, fleeces, jackets, embroidered bags and other bits and bobs. If you visit first thing in the morning, the shopkeepers may declare you a ‘lucky morning customer’ in which case you’ll get a good discount. Whether this is just a sneaky sales pitch, or a morning customer is indeed ‘lucky’, you’ll feel special nonetheless. There’s also a 7-Eleven, a Bluebird supermarket and the ‘Chinatown Restaurant’ on the same road.
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| Radisson room/ photo: Jane McLean |
Kathmandu business hotels, leisure stays, and casinos
Where to rest your weary head after a day out sightseeing? There are options for every budget, from basic Kathmandu guesthouses to five-star hotels. The five-star offerings in Nepal might not have the gleam of an equivalent hotel in, say, Chiang Mai, but they are comfortable nonetheless and many are upgrading. It is common to find a casino tacked onto a hotel.
The five-star Radisson Hotel Kathmandu is in Lazimpat, neighbouring the Royal Palace. It is close to a number of diplomatic embassies (the British, Indian, French, Finnish, Israeli, Japanese, Chinese, Mexican, Russian Embassies and the Canadian Consulate are all within walking distance), as well as the central business district. Thus the Radisson is a popular choice for business travellers. This eight-storey hotel offers 160 rooms ranging from superior to club, with some luxury suites. Rooms are clean and well presented, and include Internet access ports, writing desk, satellite television, coffee maker, hairdryer and a small safe. There are three restaurants, conference facilities and a fitness centre. On the roof of the fifth floor is a small outdoor pool and bar area with views over the city. The lobby is often distractingly abustle. Fear not, staff is efficient and friendly. WiFi is available throughout the hotel for NRs791 for 24 hours. The Radisson is not just a good Kathmandu business hotel, it is close to the tourist spots of Durbar Marg and Thamel. And if gaming is your thing, a casino is on site.
A cheaper alternative in the same area is Hotel Tibet. Step into the lobby and you might actually imagine, just for a minute, that you’ve got completely lost and ended up, well, in Tibet. You’ll be greeted by Tibetan-inspired detail from all sides. There’s hand-woven Tibetan carpets on the floor, Tibetan rugs draped over chairs, Tibetan furniture, and walls and mirrors bordered with Tibetan motifs. This hotel offers 55 rooms and suites, one restaurant, a bar and a rooftop garden – a peaceful spot. Rooms are simply decorated with air-conditioning and satellite television. There’s a 24-hour Internet lounge for guests in need of a computer. Hotel Tibet is in a quiet street yet minutes away from Thamel.
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| Yak & Yeti grounds/ photo: Jane McLean |
On the other side of the Royal Palace is Hotel Yak & Yeti, a huge property, enveloped in history, on Durbar Marg. There are no yaks, nor yetis, but there are two wings – one is more than a century old. It was once the third palace of a prime minister of Nepal. The size of the building is vast, the grounds equally so. A sprawling garden contains two pools, tennis courts, a pond (with ducks), white chairs under white tents, jacaranda trees, large greens and a 100-year-old temple dedicated to the Goddess Kumari. Despite its 5-star status, the lobby is a little tired. A general revamp is in the works.
The 270 rooms range from superior to suites and are either Newari in style (brick walls with intricate wooden carving) or more contemporary. Each comes with a writing desk and satellite television. Some of the larger suites are located on an exclusive floor, which holds a separate guest lounge. Conference and banquet facilities at the Yak & Yeti are spacious with chandeliers and a sense of history. WiFi is available throughout the hotel for US$10 per day. There’s a choice of two restaurants serving Russian cuisine at one and a mix of Asian and continental fare at the other. A piano lounge is located near the lobby. There’s also a poolside bar and, for partying, the hotel has its own nightclub and casino. Yak & Yeti is a Kathmandu hotel worth marking in your diary.
Also on Durbar Marg is the four-star Hotel de l’Annapurna. The tariffs listed for this hotel are for ‘foreign nationals and non-resident Indians’. Rates are variable. The hotel is undergoing substantial renovation, but is open for business. The lobby is garish and bright with souvenir shops greeting guests before the actual reception area. It’s a large property sitting on five-and-a-half acres of land. The 155 rooms range from superior to suites and offer WiFi, TV, hairdryer, iron and ironing board and coffee maker. There are three restaurants, one bar and a cake shop. For health buffs, there’s a pool and fitness club. The hotel offers large conference and meeting facilities and can provide themed receptions on its lawn. There is a baby-sitting service and, as seems to be the norm for larger hotels in Kathmandu, a casino.
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| Hotel de l'Annapurna/ photo: hotel |
It’s worth pointing out that the coffee at Kathmandu’s Shangri-la Hotel is good. Very good. It’s pricier than the average Kathmandu coffee, probably because it’s Illy, an Italian brand. Coffee ‘experts’ train hotel staff on how to make a decent cuppa. The added bonus is that you can sit in Shangri-La’s delightful gardens, listen to the birds and just while away the day sipping that great brew. Stairs lead up from the gardens to a pool modelled on an ancient stone bath. The hotel has a restful feel. The lobby is elegant, Indo-Tibetan in style, with an old piano sitting beside the entrance. To the left is the Lost Horizon Bar with a fireplace for cool Kathmandu nights. Some of the 100 rooms are decorated in traditional Newari style while others sport contemporary decor. For a tad more comfort, the top floor offers larger rooms including two deluxe suites, a club lounge and views across the gardens. There are meeting and conference facilities and bookworms will welcome the reading room. The Shangri-La’s hair salon and spa, located on the street outside of the hotel, are popular, so book in advance for a makeover. Himalayan legend Sir Edmund Hillary stayed here, as did explorer Dame Freya Stark. If it’s good enough for them…
South of the Royal Palace, near Patan, is Hotel Himalaya. It is close to the United Nations complex, as well as the Norwegian and Egyptian embassies. It’s termed five-star, but this 100-room hotel has seen better days. The property switched from Japanese to Nepalese ownership some years ago. If you manage to score yourself the one room that has been revamped at this stage, you’ll get wooden floors, Newari décor and a new bathroom. The rest of the rooms are adequate and some bathrooms have been done up. The hotel offers spacious grounds, room balconies (some with great views over the city), a pool, tennis court, meeting facilities and a restaurant. The ancient Patan Durbur Square is a 15-minute walk away.
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| Crisp Hyatt Regency/ photo: hotel |
Hyatt Regency Kathmandu is a relatively new kid on the Kathmandu block. It’s all about space at the Hyatt. Set on 37 expansive acres, its rooms are the biggest in the city, and it has more of them (290) than any other Kathmandu hotel. The Hyatt has a gloss to it that is conspicuous by its absence elsewhere. A long driveway is bordered by grassy gardens and meanders up to the hotel’s entrance. The lobby is large and light-filled. There is a sunken ‘temple court’ holding replicas of Buddhist temples, where guests can sit on cushioned seats. Some guests might not enjoy the smoke wafting from the lobby’s smoking area, which is barely distinguishable from the non-smoking area. However, there is no shortage of areas to escape to.
The garden holds two pools, vast lawns, tennis courts and a view of Boudhnath Stupa. Rooms have wooden floors, king-size beds, WiFi, TV, hairdryer, bathrobes, and granite bathrooms with separate bath and shower. Book the presidential suite and you’ll get an entire floor, a bathroom with rain shower, a Jacuzzi that looks out to Boudhnath, and separate kitchen and dining area. There’s a slick spa and fitness centre. Four restaurants cover all tastes from casual poolside to formal dining. Extensive conference facilities complete the picture. Grab a ‘Chaitya Walk’ map from the lobby and explore 1,500 years of Buddhist architecture, all located a short walk from the hotel. If your preferred mode of transport is by helicopter, and your wallet is up to it, there’s a helipad in the garden.
Everest Hotel lies east of the city centre and, because of its close proximity to the airport, it is a popular hotel for offloaded passengers. (Have you reconfirmed your flight?) The lobby of the hotel can be manic with loud, cigarette-smoking groups. Perhaps more glamorous in its heyday (the brochure claims Everest Hotel has hosted ‘royalty, dignitaries and the celebrities of the world’), the décor is dated and kitsch. Everest Hotel offers 160 rooms, a pool, tennis court, three restaurants, bar, a casino, a “five-star discothique” (sic), as well as conference facilities. Group bookings are heavily discounted.
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| Hotel Himalaya/ photo: hotel |
If you fancy Thamel, but need peace at the same time, try the Kantipur Temple House. Built in 1998, in the style of a typical Newari temple, Kantipur Temple House offers 48 rooms furnished with traditional art and décor. The open rooftop terrace offers views of the city, the hills and Swayambhunath stupa. There are two restaurants, a courtyard and garden. More rooms are in the pipeline. Kantipur Temple House waves an eco-friendly banner – there’s no use of plastic bags, guests are provided with cloth shopping bags, the hotel does not sell plastic bottled water (free water is offered in jars), and organic vegetables are used in the restaurants.
The museum-like Dwarika’s Hotel is about ten minutes’ drive from the centre of town, in a residential area. It’s within walking distance from Pashupathinath. The hotel is built in the Newari manner with intricately carved wood and brick and throughout are rare antiques and artefacts collected over many years by the late Dwarika Das Shrestha, whose aim it was to preserve the heritage of Nepal. The 74 rooms are each individually designed – some have 16th century windows, others have private courtyards. Hand-painted fabrics are used for the bedspreads and curtains. There is a separate bar and a restaurant offering a 22-course menu. For relaxation, try the in-room massages or park yourself in a lounger beside the pool.
Soaltee Crowne Plaza is west of the Royal Palace in Tahachal, a ten-minute drive from central Kathmandu. Set on 11 acres, this five-star hotel has 283 rooms, including seven ‘Regal’ suites. At the entrance there is a platform with chairs around the edge looking out over the gardens. The inside of the lobby is bright and brisk. Soaltee Crowne Plaza (once the Soaltee Oberoi) has ample facilities for conferences and meetings and remains among the more popular Kathmandu business hotels. There are four restaurants and one bar. A pool and gym will satisfy health nuts and the tennis court comes complete with ball boys. A casino is also on site. About five minutes away by foot is the Kalimati Fruit and Vegetable Market – the biggest fruit and veggie market in the valley. Dive in and find your dream asparagus.
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| Soaltee Crowne Plaza/ photo: Jane McLean |
Want to hit the golf greens in Kathmandu? Then consider staying at Le Méridien Kathmandu Gokarna Forest Golf Resort and Spa, about 30 minutes from the city centre. Gokarna might be farther afield, but this three-storey resort offers forest surrounds (once the private hunting grounds of the Nepalese kings), panoramic views of the Himalayas, and a Gleneagles-designed golf course on its doorstep. All of the 55 wooden-floored rooms and suites have views of the forest. The hotel has an indoor pool and spa, overlooking the valley. Wine and dine in one of four bars and restaurants – for fine dining and a taste of history, try Hunter’s Lodge Restaurant, previously a royal hunting pavilion.
Club Himalaya Nagarkot sits atop the aptly-named Windy Hills. It is windy up here in Nagarkot and markedly cooler than the city. The hotel advises guests to always bring a windcheater and “avoid loose flying skirts and sarees unless you want a Marilyne [sic] Monroe experience”. From outside the hotel on a clear day there are dramatic views in every direction. Club Himalaya is one of the bigger places to stay in Nagarkot, with five floors and 52 standard rooms offering basic amenities. The lobby, which contains one of the hotel’s two restaurants, has a dark wood interior, making things a bit dim on cloudy days. There are views from certain parts of the lobby, but these are partly obscured by foliage. From the lobby restaurant, peer over a waist-high wall at people swimming in the indoor pool and spa below. The Tea House Inn, part of the hotel but set apart from the main building, has better views of the valley. It is hikers’ heaven up here and Club Himalaya can arrange a car for day or overnight trips.
Kathmandu budget hotels and guesthouses
For Kathmandu budget hotels and cheap rates, head to Thamel. Cheep and cheerful are the likes of Hotel Manang, Hotel Impala, Hotel Tenki, Hotel Marshyangdi, Hotel Northfield, Yeti Guest House, Kathmandu Guest House, and Tibet House. Accommodation at these Kathmandu guest houses is variable, rates change constantly and, if you go for the cheapest rooms, bathrooms will be shared. However, weary trekkers returning from the mountains report that Thamel guesthouses are luxury digs indeed.
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| 7-Eleven/ photo: Jane McLean |
Dining and restaurants, Newari style to pizza
For those lacking a stomach of steel, steer clear of uncooked food in Nepal (including cut fruit). Avoid ice, and drink bottled mineral water. If you’re after McDonalds, KFC, Pizza Hut or any other international fast food joints, then you’re out of luck, for now. You will see KFC, but it’s the Kathmandu Fried Chicken version and is remarkably different from the ol’ Colonel Sanders secret recipe.
Local Nepali food is cheap, tasty and involves plenty of lentils. Nepalese curries are light and not overly spicy. Momos are steamed dumplings filled with meat or vegetables; a Nepal trip is not complete without sampling these delicious morsels. For good, organic, Nepalese food, try Bhojan Griha in Kathmandu’s Dilli Bazaar (www.bhojangriha.com). Bharat Basnet is the genteel and hospitable man behind restoration of the 150-year-old building where the restaurant is housed. The place is full of character. Stairs lead up to the dining entrance where shoes are left at the door, hands are washed in the traditional manner and foreheads dotted with a ‘tilak’.
Three dining floors are set up with the customary low chairs, low tables and heavy brass tableware. Dinner begins with a shot of whiskey (called “thon”) and, intriguingly, popcorn. Dishes arrive in rapid succession. These may include “aloo tareko” (spiced potatoes), momos, “jhaneko mas ko dal” (lentils), and “khashi ko masu” (lamb curry). It’s all topped off with a sweet yoghurt dessert. Eating is accompanied by bursts of Nepali music and dance. The set menu costs NRs997 plus tax. Drinks are extra; a vodka costs NRs175, and a bottle of Moet will set you back NRs7,500. Reserve a table – this place is popular. Bhojan Griha is not the only string to Basnet’s eco-friendly bow. He also manages wildlife lodges in other parts of Nepal, was the leading force in changing Kathmandu’s tempos from diesel to battery-power, and is working to reduce the use of plastic wrappers in Kathmandu.
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| Shiva Mandir/ photo: Jane McLean |
Another restaurant serving up a nightly cultural show with traditional Nepalese fare is Bhanchha Ghar (www.bhanchhaghar.com), located just off Durbar Marg.
There are dozens of other dining spots in Thamel and Durbar Marg where you can get anything from Japanese to German, Chinese to Mexican, Italian to vegetarian. The more expensive restaurants are located on Durbar Marg and a few local fast food chains are dotted around town; The Nanglo chain (www.nanglos.com) comprises Nanglo Café & pub, the Nanglo Chinese Room, Nanglo Deli and several Bakery Cafes throughout Kathmandu. Food is cheap and ranges from Chinese and western, to Indian and Nepalese curry. Other food joints include Wimpy for hamburgers, Hot Bread for sandwiches, and Fire and Ice for pizza and pasta (www.fireandicepizzeria.com). There’s a huge variety of eating and drinking options in the Thamel area. Try ‘4 Ever’ Café & Bar (part of Hotel Northfield), Tom & Jerry Pub, The Rum Doodle (www.therumdoodle.com), Four Seas Restaurant, La Dolce Vita, Brezel Bakery and countless others.
And that’s a quick A-to-Z Kathmandu guide. Amidst the mayhem, there’s a mystic experience to be had. And lots of momos. Eat up, people.
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