Will Bangkok’s bold new hotel zones change traditional stay patterns?

{What is immediately clear is that the traditional hotel axes of Sukhumvit, Silom and the river area north of Taksin Bridge, are no longer calling the shots...

On the Sukhumvit BTS artery not far from shopping-central EM District and Terminal 21 is Kromo Bangkok, Curio Collection by Hilton (www.hilton.com). It is heading towards a mid-2025 opening helmed by former Indigo GM Jennifer Vivian. Expect a hip vibe, a 24-hour fitness centre and alfresco pool.

On 27 September 2024 Dusit Central Park (featuring the reimagined Dusit Thani Bangkok (www.dusit.com) with spacious park-view suites in a mixed-use complex at the corner of Silom and Rama 4) staked an old claim for this strip. From a distance, the new version of this landmark bears a reassuring similarity to the old building with its gold trademark spire. Up close it is more a slim matchbox construct with shopping and multi-use space coming up on the Silom Road side. All the hugely spacious rooms feature Lumphini Park views with peekaboo soaking tubs, windowside divans and varied subtle textures. Nothing too strong and very feminine. This is a big change from its past black muscularity.

The cream lobby (with a few old patterned blue pillars) is a much more intimate space than the black marble welcome of yore. A bar is on hand for guests awaiting check-in. The space is minimalist and perhaps a tad bland for some. A stone waterfal has been recreated to one side to mimic the old lobby experience but in a more muted manner.

Pick a 50sq m Corner Room for some real indulgence. Expect dreamy faded landscapes worked into wall murals with golden threads, a Japanese toilet, soaking tub looking at the bedroom through mint-green louvred windows, a separate rain shower and an open wardrobe with hangers. Irons are available on request. You walk through the dressing area to access the bedroom. Each side of the bed has two USB sockets and a three-pin international plug socket. Topping it up is a Nespresso machine and a curvy SMEG electric kettle. This development shall be watched with interest as co-owners Central and Dusit duke it out for control and direction.

JW Marriott set the tone on Sukhumvit over 20 years ago with its striking lobby gold panels, and GM Peter Caprez (far right) has shepherded the property through its relaunch with new rooms and a bright Executive Lounge (left); Classic marble lobby (with roses) of the Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok (centre right)/ photos: Vijay Verghese

The 52-suite Aman Nai Lert Bangkok (www.aman.com) opens early 2025 (modestly delayed from Q3 2024) with its signature minimalist zen design, an armload of Japanese menus, Italian dining, and a wellness retreat. There are also 39 Aman Residences from floors 11 to 36. Sited within view of the Ploenchit BTS Station on traffic-clogged one-way Nai Lert this plush address has a challenge on its hands. The hushed leisurely Aman will likely slow down the pace and its hushed interiors will provide the rest of the tonic. If Soi Nai Lert proves problematic, access is also available via Soi Khit that runs down from Ploenchit (close to Central Chidlom).

Off the BTS grid, the tony riverfront beachhead of Chao Phraya Estate serves up the large black-stone cubist Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok at Chao Phraya River (www.fourseasons.com) that is strangely calming with its high ceilings, water features, art, textures and riverfront pools. Try its Cafe Madeleine pastry shop by the river. Next door is the more delicate Capella Bangkok (capellahotels.com) with manicured green lawns (actually astro-turf for convenience). This will disturb the tropical idyll for some but the interiors of this intimate hotel are delicately worked and service is excellent.

Both these waterfront properties have broken the river’s curse and successfully muscled into conferences and weddings with Capella now a particular favourite for Thai ceremonies. Of course, both are popular for leisure too and there is space at the artsy Four Seasons to separate the scrum from hand-holding romantics. (Our earlier review of Four Seasons and Capella Bangkok.) Right next door, stepping insouciantly on hallowed upmarket heels is the fun and feisty The Salil Hotel Riverside Bangkok (thesalilriverside.com/) that arrived in 2024 and is already grabbing eyeballs with playful interiors, fun bites, wellness and meetings space.

What is immediately clear is that the traditional hotel axes of Sukhumvit, Silom and the river area around Taksin Bridge, are no longer calling the shots. If the newer developments are successful — and there’s no reason to believe they won’t — travellers will soon be pouring into previously untrodden areas.

Spectrum rooftop bar at the Hyatt Regency Sukhumvit (far left) is a breezy evening retreat; Sammy Carolus the GM is using AI to cut food waste; Kimpton Maa-Lai's CRAFT is a convivial meeting spot; and (right), cannabis joint/ photos: Vijay Verghese

This is good news for the city as it will bring dollars to needy sois and travellers may benefit from more competitive pricing. The Sukhumvit and BTS routes will remain popular due to the convenience of transport, shopping, dining and nightlife. The river will grow as a conference area bringing in conventioneers with families looking for a resort feel. Visitors may in turn circle back to traditional downtown spots and less highbrow addresses to conserve dollars and avoid crowds.

Sitting in the black-and-gold JW Marriott Hotel Bangkok (www.marriott.com) lounge on clubby overstuffed brown leather chairs as the pianist plays ‘Pachelbel’s Canon’ one might be forgiven for thinking nothing has changed since 1997 when it first opened. The gleaming black flooring and the turquoise-tile water features remain along with the soaring gold panels depicting the Chinese zodiac. Popular with his guests, GM Peter Caprez took the hotel through a major refurbishment in 2019 unveiling contemporary rooms with Thai touches and a bright executive lounge.

The traditional lobby is strangely relaxing though and I struggle to stay awake. It offers therapeutic appeal for business travellers of a certain vintage who will stay nowhere else. It is often packed with Americans and Australians trading boisterous tales. It recalls the heady days of the old Dusit Thani and the Siam InterContinental that radiated solidity with shimmering processions of khunyings headed for elaborate tea sessions. Of course there is also the saucy neighbourhood appeal of this Soi Nana area.

Sipping a coffee at BBCo, the street-fronting deli, Caprez is all focus as he directs staff to attend to customers. He’s been here over 20 years watching his hotel like a hawk and classic Swiss hospitality flows in his veins. His face creases into a big smile as he looks out of the window: “You know, a lobby upgrade in a running hotel is like open heart surgery.” We both laugh at the thought.

Across the road at breezy Spectrum, the rooftop bar at the gleaming fairly new Hyatt Regency Bangkok Sukhumvit (www.hyatt.com), GM Sammy Carolus offers me a lychee-rose mocktail. It’s hugely refreshing. I mop off the day’s sweat. Quite an innovator and forward thinker, the mild mannered Carolus is always exploring new ideas.

The Sindhorn Kempinski (left) is betting on ultimate relaxation and medical tourists; The lobby is a curious mix of stark concrete and lush Thai touches with an airctraft hangar entrance; Kimpton Maa-Lai looks at Sindhorn's sucked in belly; and (right) Conrad's sleek new-look lobby reflections/ photots: Vijay Verghese

He is keen on sustainability and has employed artificial intelligence to calculate food waste to help chefs find an optimum sweet spot. “From pretzels to sundries, AI has helped us cut food waste by as much as 20%,” he says. Bottled water at this Hyatt Regency has shifted to Tetra Paks. With cannabis bars mushrooming all over the city and raunchy nightlife a stone’s throw away, Carolus has his job cut out reassuring skittish travellers and lady executives.

Another old-timer hitting the two decade mark is the Conrad Bangkok (www.hilton.com), the darling of fashionistas when it launched with off-the-shoulder silk uniforms for the ladies, a jazz bar, a great spa, and chillout music. It is back after a massive renovation with compact contemporary pastel rooms making up about 80% of the mix. Sensibly hedging its bets, Conrad Bangkok retains some of the older Thai-style silk-and-wood rooms that many guests still prefer. A 35m LED wall is the centrepiece of the ballroom but the hotel is moving into a younger lifestyle space with an emphasis on kids, families, fitness, relaxation and wellness. Interestingly, its former nightlife space near the lobby mall entrance has morphed into a medical centre.

At Sindhorn Kempinski Hotel, Bangkok (www.kempinski.com), a smooth stark curvy concrete entrance that resembles an airplane hangar transforms into cavernous light-filled lobby with a black Thai sala at its centre. It’s a bit like what one might imagine if Charles de Gaulle Airport romanced Jim Thompson and had a love child. My Charles de Gaulle quip brings on a chuckle from GM Christian Ruge: "But no delays and cancellations here," he laughs. The hotel is high ranked Top 10 Business & Meetings Hotel in Asia on our annual reader polls. Accccording to the dapper and immaculately groomed Jee Hoong Tan, the man charged with marketing and selling this space, the property is everything sister hotel the Siam Kempinski is not. This avoids any conflict or confusion. The 274-key hotel “focuses on independent travellers, couples, seniors, and medical tourists,” says Jee Hoong. This is follwed by a very brave statement. “There is no ballroom ... and no crowd. We have gardens and natural light for small meetings, engagements and Thai weddings.”

The hotel attracts a diverse audience with a lot of Asian traffic from Japan, Singapore, China, Hong Kong and Myanmar. “Medical tourists are growing for us,” he adds, gesturing with his hands at the expansive surrounds. “We get patients undergoing chemotherapy for three to four months and they need space with no crowds.” And that’s what they get with a 66sq m starting room category. Suites have kitchenettes. And there is no kids’ club.

The Salil Hotel Riverside Bangkok (far left) is a playful addition along the waterfront; Indigo Bangkok is a sparky boutique hotel with eye-catching balcony rooms and a stunning green view (centre two); and section of Sindhorn Midtown room (right)/photos: Vijay Verghese / Salil photo: hotel

Sindhorn Kempinski is a relaxing proposition with fine dining on the premises and across the greens at the Velaa Sindhorn Village complex.  Jee Hoong points to the lush green lawns outside. “Technically we could build a 500-room structure there. But we want open space. Luxury has to be felt.” Hotel food waste gets composted for the garden, non-perishables go to charity, and solar panels on the roof (starting April) help serve on-site energy needs. Sustainability is a big part of the mix here. “Hopefully Langsuan won’t get overdeveloped and crowded,” he sighs.

Right next door the Kimpton Maa-Lai Bangkok (www.kimptonmaalaibangkok.com) is a bustling lifestyle hotel, hip and happening, and with pets trotting about insouciantly at a canter with the coolest of torn-jean-clad owners in Dior shades. Chill music pumps out at CRAFT, the lobby social mixer centrepiece. It has become a preferred meeting spot by the local congnoscenti and is attracting fresh-faced leisure trippers as well as wireless digital-nomad businessmen. It's a metrosexual vibe and the emphasis is hugely on service and guest experience. "Managing dogs and guests must be a challenge," I say. Tall broad-shoulderd GM Patrick Both gives me a mischievous sideways look: "Pets are much easier than humans," he grins. We all laugh. Of course, it's a quip, and every guest is treated like pure gold.

Two hundred yards down Lang Suan opposite the reflagged small and quirky Hotel Muse Bangkok, Autograph Collection (www.marriott.com) with its excellent rooftop bar, the Sindhorn Midtown (www.sindhornmidtown.com/) offers a more casual convivial flavour, mod yet simple with bursts of art here and there and the ANJU Korean K-Pop style rooftop bar. To find it, look for the large 7-Eleven, and that sums up the area’s vibe. Cheap, cheerful, friendly and neat, Midtown is a different kind of informal mid-range luxe of sorts.

Up on Ploenchit Road next to the Chidlom BTS Station, the quick-stepping Muscle MICE InterContinental Bangkok (bangkok.intercontinental.com/) is back, gussied up and decluttered, with more powder pastels and less Thai gold splashes (as at the toned-down reception). The signature chandelier hangs gracefully above the soaring lobby leading to a grand staircase and the lobby is awash with quick-stepping guest experience ladies who float up to assist gawping guests.

Delicate Capella Bangkok touches (far left) and facets of the grand riverside Four Seasons (centre three) with a view of the new look cream and wood lobby at the towering Centara Grande & Bangkok Convention Centre at Central World/photos: Vijay Verghese

InterContinental Bangkok rooms starting at 45sq m offer pale wood floors with pale lightly patterned carpets (making subtle use of the hotel’s new floral signature), ample electric sockets (three-pin) with modern USB ports, a phone dock, large ‘smart’ TV, soaking tub and rain shower, iron, safe, and a bright vanity light around the main mirror. Some rooms sport Japanese jump-up potties, be warned. Follow the instructions carefully. Expect spacious ballrooms with an entire floor holding up to 2,000 for a cocktail. Ample spa and fitness spaces make up the rest of the mix taking up three top floors with a small outdoor pool.  

Across the busy road, the soaring mouthful, the Centara Grande & Bangkok Convention Centre at Central World (www.centarahotelsresorts.com) hosts a stunning rooftop bolthole — Red Sky — and its cream and curves woody new look has proved a big draw for conventioneers enjoying its panoramic-view lobby and convenient USB and phone charging spots.

A short walk away, Sindhorn's older sibling the Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok (www.kempinski.com) at the Siam BTS interchange and connected via Paragon Mall, is more like "a classic European hotel," remarks marketing head Lalida Hirunteerapol. An urban oasis like no other, its soaring marbled spaces attract the beau monde from USA and Europe to the Middle East. "We will look at ways to attract the younger generation," adds Lalida, as market shifts make it imperative for even icons to extend their appeal. One way being explored is co-working spaces and mixers.

Two brands to watch are the award-winning St Regis Bangkok (www.marriott.com) helmed by energetic new GM Dario Pithard and city landmark the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok (www.hyatt.com/), with GM Sascha Lenz who is keen to move from the unusual tartan and other traditional elements to "a friendly Thai younger feel".

Traditional Japanese Okura (far left) wants to attract younger travellers; Athenee Bangkok (centre left) rebranded and brought in a new look; The St Regis (centre right) remains a top business address; and (far right) the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok wants to add youthful touches for a Gen Z pitch/photos: Vijay Verghese

Other classics looking to reinvent themselves are the splendidly located and darkly posh The Okura Prestige Bangkok (www.okurabangkok.com) with a direct connection to the Ploenchit station. Japanese tradition weighs heavy here but the conversation is on to eveolve into something more approachable and informal while maintaining the traditional space. Dutch GM Niek Hammer is the lobby-cruising guest-seeking face entrusted with this mission. Next door another posh address, The Athenee Hotel, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Bangkok (www.marriott.com), is a mouthful but it has steadily transformed into a luxe meeting space with a colonial Thai vibe, the charge led by live-wire lady GM Choo Leng Goh.

The Lumphini environs just off Ploenchit on quieter Wireless Road (next to the Okura and Athenee) are leafy and beckoning and it is here the Hotel Indigo Bangkok (bangkok.hotelindigo.com/) continues to pull in happy faces from all over the world. The hotel ranks a regular Top 10 on our reader polls as a boutique and lifestyle getaway. The Bangkok property is a remarkable showpiece. The place is young, funky, playful and sloshing in natural light. This is a friendly space with colourful Thai-inspired rooms, many with balconies, some with soaking tubs by the window. Ask for a corner room. Then browse the quirky wall-mounted radio sets and analogue devices in the lobby lift foyer. Expect youthful inspired service.

The leather padded lifts with deep button Chesterfield tufting are perfect for a spot of husband-bashing (listen up ladies), and on top are a small pool with a view and a classy, intimate, rooftop bar. Lotions and shampoos are now dispensed via large “tamper proof” bottles affixed to the wall. It’s the price of success. Keep an eye on this one. It’s a comfortable middle ground between wallet-pummelling luxury and traditional. Bobby the indefatigable doorman is a busy presence with a permanent smile. One of the small things that make a BIG difference.

Last biut not the least, around the corner on Ploenchit and smack next to the BTS station the wildly popular budget Novotel Bangkok Ploenchit reflagged mid 2024 as the Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok Ploenchit (www.marriott.com).

As my taxi leaves my hotel it slows and stops. “Suvarnabhumi?” the driver asks, scratching his head. “Suv-arna-bhumiiii…” I looked at him expressionless. He turns to me shaking his head, “Lama 9 traaffiiic, we go Bang Na (a hugely circuitous detour)… I do evelything fo you.” “No,” I say firmly, “Rama 4 and the tollway.” And so it is. There is no traffic and we reach the airport in record time. It may sound laughable but the Tourism Authority of Thailand actually has a complaint line for transportation issues. The feedback is toe-curling. Is anyone listening?