CITY GUIDE

Yes, Manila means business

A Manila business hotels review - from class to crass. Notes on sniffer dogs, traffic, budget hotels, bars and a brief Manila shopping guide.

by Vijay Verghese

updated by Kate Springer

SEE ALSO Cebu resorts | Boracay resorts | Palawan resorts | Hong Kong hotels | Hong Kong shopping | Singapore nightlife | Taipei nightlife

JUMP TO Airport arrival and duty-free | Makati business hotels | Makati service apartments | Makati budget hotels | Fort Bonifacio area hotels | Bay hotels | Casino hotels | Service apartments | Manila budget hotels | Around the city | Manila shopping | Nightlife

YOU’LL receive a hero’s welcome in Manila. If you’re lucky, it could be confetti, tickertape and the occasional tank. These are the expensive toys employed by revolutionaries, demonstrators and the government – necessary distractions in one of Asia’s most robust and colourful democracies – to welcome travellers, along with serenading minstrels. It’s a tropical cocktail like no other.

Several years ago in Manila I learned heavily armed men strapped with explosives had taken over the airport control tower. An even more heavily armed SWAT team bristling with ordinance had then stormed the place, firing automatic weaponry. All that was missing was King Kong. Reassured by these signs of normalcy, the passengers all went about their regular business. Yet the tension was mounting.

Inside, screaming, stampeding, and gesticulating travellers provided ample proof – that airport staff simply do not appreciate the average Filipino’s ability to pack the entire contents of Mindanao in a carry-on bag. And this is the lively street theatre that assails visitors from all sides as they enjoy this country’s unique blend of old world and new, power and pathos, commerce and carnival.

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At hotels you’ll find the customary friendly Filipino greeting. A Labrador with a wet nose sniffed my bags and parts of my anatomy unmolested since my mother demanded to check my underwear before I left for school.

Sniffer dogs are is hard at work in The Philippines ensuring that hotel guests change their underwear daily and lobbies are free of B.O. It’s a pretty thorough going-over. Everything gets opened. Bags. Cameras. Parasols. And then comes the handheld metal detector.

And then come those heart-melting Filipina smiles. It’s all worth it. Hotel staff here is second to none. But before we delve into our Manila business hotels review and go head-to-head with the Big Two in Makati – The Makati Shangri-La and The Peninsula Manila – let’s finish with the airport.

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Arriving and departing Manila Airport

Security at Ninoy Aquino International Airport (NAIA) is tight. Departures entail three levels of security screenings, one right at the entrance for passports and bags. Later, hang on to your trousers as you drop your belts, bags, computers, shoes and inhibitions. After streaming into ‘his’ and ‘her’ lines, everything gets checked and you’ll be patted down courteously too. Rules regarding liquids appear to be softening but, to be safe, place these items in your check-in baggage or run the risk of having it all confiscated.

Most travellers to Manila will be well acquainted with the musty, concrete corridors of the International Airport Terminal 1 occasionally enlivened by wandering minstrels strumming guitars. The Centennial Terminal (T2) is the exclusive domain of the flag carrier Philippine Airlines (PAL). And the newest building, Terminal 3, is a gleaming enclave for Cebu Pacific, Philippine Airlines and domestic airlines.

Arriving visitors are usually spared the tedious inspection reserved for outbound passengers. Customs checks are quick and, with just carry-on and a well-timed flight in, you could be from gate to taxi in 10 to 15 minutes. For the cheapest ride into town, exit the airport, cross the lane, and head down the stairs to the street level where the local taxis are parked. Be warned, it can be a scrum. A cab ride to the Makati commercial area where most of the exclusive Manila business hotels are located will cost about P200 or so depending on traffic and the ingenuity of your driver. The bright and clean Yellow Cab metered taxis are a godsend. Airport Taxis from T1 to Makati cost P250 (roughly US$1 = P42).

Departing passengers pay a terminal fee of P550. This is forked out just before immigration where a sign will caution you against “cracking jokes about bombs”. Manila airport duty-free shopping is pretty limited and not terribly competitive. Pick up a Johnnie Walker Black Label or 12-year-old duty-free Chivas priced at almost the same rates as in Hong Kong or Singapore airports. The same holds for perfumes and ties.

The SMART telecoms company and assorted other providers all want your business and often station pretty girls to waylay you upon arrival and reset your mobile phone to their frequency. Not a problem.

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Makati business hotels review

Built in 1976 for the International Monetary Fund bash, The Peninsula Manila (with the definite article “The”) sits proudly at the intersection of Ayala and Makati Avenues, both busy arteries of commerce. The 497-room hotel has undergone steady renovation, but the exterior is a tad tired. The Ayala Tower has had a facelift and rooms and suites in the Makati Tower have also blossomed anew. The classical lobby continues to hold the cognoscenti in thrall. During the aborted coup on 29 November, 2007, rebel soldiers, perhaps tempted by the superlative high teas and chocolate, headed here instead of Congress and stormed the hotel for a cuppa. It all ended peaceably and travellers got their money’s worth. It is after all a tale worth telling, anywhere. High-flying guests staying at this excellent address are also likely to be shot – but by flashing cameras – as The Peninsula Manila is an unreservedly top-drawer affair attracting both the beau monde and pinstriped business executives.

The latest in glitz is the 1930s Shanghai high camp throwback lounge bar, Salon de Ning, which opened December 2010. This is a riot of playful art and mischievous snuggeries in dark mood-lit corners that cover everything from a giant beady-eyed King Kong clambering up the Empire State to a shoes room and a boxing den. Say hello to the red papier mache horse and wander in for a stiff tipple to the sound of tinkling ivories and hip music by live bands and fast-fingered DJs. The Bar (again with the definite article “The”) sports a darkly chic new look. Escolta’s scrumptious buffets, Spice Garden’s Asian flavours and upscale Old Manila’s European favourites further expand the menu to suit most tastes.

How do The Peninsula Manila and Shangri-La Makati compare inside? Let’s take a look. The Pen’s bedrooms are enormous – almost too big for the existing furniture. The hotel was built at a time when travel meant style, and space, not a modern assembly-line box. The smallest rooms start at 40sq m. Sure enough, there’s enough carpet area for a small workout if you are so inclined though you could just as easily pop down to the fitness centre. The room smorgasbord runs from Superior and Deluxe to Grand Deluxe, Club Deluxe and Suite.

The Peninsula offers free in-room Internet access and WiFi in public areas. What is a niggling annoyance at most hotels in this day of “free information” is a delight here. Plug in (using the supplied cable) and get to work mailing your boss or viewing saucy pictures.

A corner Grand Deluxe in the more corporate-style Ayala Wing offers a bed large enough to entertain a small family and a HUGE vertical in-room safe to house a large laptop, cameras, video, and valuables, if not your mother-in-law. The smart black wood worktable offers enough finger-tapping elbow room and comes with Internet and dial-up modem ports (with Ethernet cable supplied) as well as two three-pin (multi) electric sockets. The hair drier is powerful enough to knock down a grown man at 20 paces and is thus, sensibly and permanently, plugged into a drawer socket by the mirror. Not for The Pen the timorous gasp of a midget drier to tickle the eyelashes. The shower, alas, is hand-held though it produces a satisfyingly powerful wake-up jet with instant hot water. Look forward to DAVI toiletries, a flat-screen TV, and a guest-friendly bedside console that runs everything from the curtains to the aircon at the tap of a finger.

No more poltergeists. That spooky, interminable creak emanating from the “capiz” mother-of-pearl shell headboard that crackled at every inflection of changing room temperature is gone. Now it’s a black coconut shell headboard.

The Peninsula Manila offers all modern facilities including electronic card keys that you will need to get to your floor though the slot is placed unusually low in the lift, at a child’s height. Hotel staff are bright, cheerful, and attentive and their service rivals the best in the country. Add to this an old world flavour, string quartets in the gossipy high-ceiling lobby, a pool surrounded by lush greenery, and The Peninsula Spa. There is little doubt that The Peninsula remains among the best Manila business hotels for the executive on the go or as a classy conference venue. It is certainly among the top Makati business hotels and should be on everyone’s short list.

The gleaming, modern, 696-room Makati Shangri-La, Manila is just across Ayala Avenue, in the heart of Makati 's Central Business District right next to the shopping. It is in many ways the antithesis of the reserved Pen, younger, bold, brash, large, and trendy. The hotel has cheerfully reinvented itself a few times and outlets have come and gone in mysterious succession. The funky Zu bar has made way for the Quezon Ballroom, while Red with its high-back crimson chairs and startling white décor, Circles café, and the thrumming Conway’s bar where you can quaff all the wine or beer you want for just around P530 during happy hour, keep guests enthralled. Wine aficionados can even enjoy an all-you-can-drink wine buffet at the Lobby Lounge most evenings. It’s enough to make anyone happy, or at least bleary eyed.

As at many hotels, security is tight, very tight. Expect the usual well groomed Labrador, hand searches, and metal-detectors. The hotel also employs a handheld device that scans not just for weapons but also for drugs, like ecstasy. Another good reason to bring your teenage kids here for a good scanning while you enjoy the endlessly flowing wine.

Let’s step inside. The rooms at the Makati Shangri-La are bright and gold-hued – with elaborately curving and sensuous blonde wood walls (The Pen prefers dark wood) that entertain the eyes and enliven the diminished space. It’s a ship cabin room that runs long rather than square as at The Pen and the Superior room at 38sq m is a tad smaller. Rooms have the now obligatory LCD flat screen, which shows CNN and any channel you care to peruse.

The hair drier is a good size, there is a fax in all rooms, a large work desk with leather chair, a laptop sized electronic safe, and a very thoughtful iron and ironing board. The classic round dial clock can be placed anywhere and a flashlight is at hand should you have overindulged at Conway’s and can’t find your nose. The bathroom is fairly compact though not small by any means, with a jet shower, and a separate bathtub. If you’re a workaholic, don’t worry, WiFi is free throughout the hotel.

Members of the Horizon Club may avail of exclusive perks such as coddling by butlers, free breakfasts, complimentary pressings and shoe shines, complimentary evening cocktails, and access to the workstations and meeting rooms in the lounge. The hotel also features a comprehensive fitness centre and an open-air podium pool that catches a generous amount of sun. There is no signature CHI spa here (this is currently the preserve of the sister property at EDSA) but there are five rooms for all varieties of treatments and massage. The hotel has a definite buzz about it and front office and guest-relations staff are on the ball. People will reach for your bags and show you around the moment you step in. And that’s the two best Manila business hotels for you, not just in Makati. Stately? Or slick? Take your pick.

A Makati stalwart, indeed one of the original occupants of this prime stretch of Manila real estate, the InterContinental Manila, offers easy access to commerce and recreation with its central location. Right next door is the Ayala Center, a large commercial establishment complete with theatres, shopping and dining. The hotel’s age is sadly all too apparent in the inherited grey concrete shell that pales by comparison to its more illustrious neighbours. Yet, this Makati business hotel with 332 rooms including 59 suites and 42 Club InterContinental rooms has made a dramatic comeback with fresh renovations and new-look interiors. The makeover has been nothing short of dramatic. The new incarnation proudly sports a penthouse Club InterContinental lounge with wrap around Makati views, classy touches, atmospheric lighting, free Internet access, and a steady supply of canapés and drinks.

The hotel boasts one of the largest outdoor freeform swimming pools around. Shave some vacation fat off with the hotel’s fitness facilities or enjoy a massage after a shopping blitz. Rooms offer paid Internet access, work tables with ergonomic chairs, a small safe (that will house a video camera if not a laptop) and a variety of bathroom styles, some with showers, others with bathtubs and that must-have drizzle. Yes, there is a hair drier but it lacks zing. Among Makati conference hotels, the InterContinental pulls some weight, with seven function rooms and one spacious Grand Ballroom, all with overhead projectors, high-speed Internet and modern audio-visual equipment.

There is much catching up to be done as yet. The hotel has no real focal point in the lobby, no general convivial meeting place, and the bar to one side, while secluded, is almost an afterthought and a far cry from the bustle and elegance of the Shang or The Pen.

A rebranded address close to the Greenbelt action is the 595-room New World Makati City Manila Hotel (formerly the Renaissance Makati City Hotel, Manila). This highrise tower is just a few steps away from restaurants, shops and bars. Everywhere you turn you’ll encounter a slew of upscale designer brands and local fare. The hotel (renovating till early 2013) offers executive services like a Business Centre with Internet, fax, and secretarial backup. There are nine boardrooms for corporate meetings and a pillar-free 675sq m Grand Ballroom for a more lavish event. Also find a fitness centre, open-air pool, and the Marahai Spa for an after-hours rubdown.

Superior rooms start at 34sq m and come with Broadband Internet (charged), iron and ironing board, coffee and tea-making facilities, satellite TV, marble bathroom with separate shower cubicle and bathtub and that all-essential hairdryer. Executive Club Deluxe rooms have irons and ironing boards, long work desks and the usual mod-cons including a 37-inch LCD TV, weighing scale and, usefully, complimentary Internet access.

In-room colours are brighter with burgundy and gold bed-runners enlivening the ensemble. Guests also have access to the Executive Club Lounge with its breakfasts, afternoon teas and cocktails. One-Bedroom Suites offer more stretch room at 48sq m. This used to be a less-pricey choice among Makati business hotels with a good location offering quick access in and out of the area without getting snarled up in the legendary Manila gridlock. With the upgrades, expect rates to climb.

Just a block away is a charming addition to the Makati family on the corner of Makati Avenue and Pasay Road. The Manila boutique hotel, four-storey Hotel Celeste is home to a mere 25 Renaissance-inspired rooms and suites. Designed with a French twist and a hint of Filipino flavour, the hotel is unlike anything else in the city. Each room has its own character, with hand-picked antique furniture and hand-painted wall details, crafted with great care.

Deluxe rooms start at a slightly snug 25sq m, and feature free WiFi, wooden floors, feather duvets, LCD TVs and in-room safes. The bathroom is a bit tight, but the white marble, rain shower, and L’Occitane products make up for that. Suites are much more spacious, measuring 60sq m and offering a large living area with an antique daybed, a dining area with high-back chairs, a small but well stocked kitchen, and a bigger bathroom with a deep tub. No matter the room type, expect a variety of timeless furniture and varying colour palettes. For a memorable and intimate stay in Makati, Hotel Celeste is among the best boutique options.

The new Raffles and Fairmont Makati complex (late 2012) is surrounded by the city’s best shopping and minutes from prime transportation arteries. This luxury addition to the Makati scene is sure to shake things up. The complex is composed of three properties – Fairmont, Raffles and Raffles Residences – that overlap facilities but retain individual personalities.

With its warm, amber and auburn entryway complete with Czech crystal chandeliers, Fairmont Makati immediately exudes refinement. The neutral palette continues throughout its 280 deluxe rooms and suites, which feature distinctly Filipino materials, such as mahogany, pearl and woven rattan. Despite traditional touches, modern amenities aren’t forsaken. The 40sq m rooms offer interactive flatscreen TVs, high-speed Internet access (for a fee) and international AC adapters.

Joined at the hip, the Raffles Hotel Makati aims even higher. Expect floor-to-ceiling windows in each of the tower’s 32 ultra-exclusive suites. Starting at 60sq m, Junior Suites offer classic luxury with antique furnishings, silks, satins, hardwood floors, tufted rugs, marble bathrooms, deep soaking tubs and separate rain showers. One-Bedroom Executive Suites double the elegance, reaching 120sq m in size. Bigger yet, the sole Presidential Suite spans a staggering 150sq m.

There is a Children’s Activity Centre on the 11th floor and babysitters are available. There’s also a 27m outdoor pool with an accompanying wading pool for Tiny Tykes. Road-weary travellers can head to the 1,200sq m Willow Stream Spa, grab a pastry at Cafe Macaron, or have a midday cocktail at the alfresco Writers Bar. In the evening, grab a Singapore Sling and throw monkey nuts on the floor at the Longbar – stretching 14m and the first to exist outside Singapore. Those planning to really make themselves at home can look into renting one of the 237 Raffles Residences, intended for Manila long-stay guests. Fairmont and Raffles aim to take top honours among Manila’s luxury brands, and the dynamic duo also has an eye on MICE market with 1,700sq m of conference and meeting space.

The Mandarin Oriental Manila is a staid if fairly popular choice on the Makati business hotels line-up though it has been somewhat becalmed with business traveller currents moving towards the guest-rich neon-lit Makati area near the Shangri-La where shopping and nightlife have mushroomed. The Mandarin has fought back. It is no slouch when it comes to food. The seven restaurants and bars, including the smart and cosy street-side Martinis with lively jazz and intriguing "mixology", make the accommodations seem like an afterthought. Rooms are elegant, traditional, and corporate, with light colours and bed-runners. Nothing overly trendy here. Just useful, easy-on-the-eye space and excellent service.

Superior and Deluxe rooms start at 34sq m with Executive Corner rooms going up to 43sq m. And, after-hours, The Spa at Mandarin Oriental Manila, offers a sensual escape amidst décor redolent of mystical Thailand. Or opt for the pool. Expect a Health Club and child-friendly services like a kids' menu. This 18-storey hotel has 442 rooms. The Mandarin Oriental Manila makes a good stab at positioning itself as a Makati conference hotel with around 15,000sq ft of function space including a ballroom large enough to accommodate 1,000 guests.

The 538-room Dusit Thani Manila is another old warhorse that has had a shot of Viagra. It now sports a gleaming black-marble lobby with soaring golden pillars. The hotel comes with 11 meeting and banqueting rooms equipped with modern apparatus and the ability to host gatherings of up to 1,000 guests. This is a well-utilised Makati conference hotel with ease of access into and out of the area. The in-house fitness centre DFiT serves up 973sq m of exercise and sauna space, while the Devarana Spa is a rejuvenation hideaway.

The hotel has seven bars and restaurants that serve Japanese, Royal Thai, Italian and of course Filipino fare. In-room expect refurbishment touches including pastel brown furnishings, flat-screen TV, hairdryer and Internet access (charged per hour or day). The Deluxe King rooms start at a smallish 28sq m with a Corner King at 45sq m.

Also in Makati, a bit away from the traffic and thrum of the central shopping and business area, the 179-room Berjaya Manila Hotel is a value proposition for executive travellers, modern, neat, unfussy and clean. The 31sq m Deluxe Rooms are well laid out with a work desk, TV and a comfortable queen-size bed. The scheme is enlivened by geometric silk bed runners, cushions, and brightly coloured head walls. Expect WiFi and in room safes. Suites go up to 47sq m, which is a bit more stretch room, with the Two Bedroom Deluxe at 78sq m. Meeting rooms can handle up to 200 persons in the largest function area.

Just a block away, the 440-suite Best Western Plus Antel Hotel is spread across three towers, with versatile business facilities, a basic fitness centre, spa and an inviting outdoor infinity pool and bar. Rooms are a bit snug – Studio Superior Suites start from 25sq m – but neutral hued decor provides a homey feel. For longer stays, try the one or two-bedroom suites, which have more living space, dining nooks and useful kitchenettes.

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Makati service apartments and longstay hotels

The 30-storey twin tower Ascott Makati (formerly Oakwood Premier apartments) is right smack in the middle of the Ayala Center and the Glorietta 4 shopping mall. Its 306 apartments include studios, one to three-bedroom residences and penthouses. Make use of Broadband access in each apartment at US$20 per day or go Wireless in the public areas. Long-staying guests may also avail of special rates. Expect an outdoor pool, two outdoor tennis courts, spa and massage rooms. In-room facilities include TV, fridge, microwave, toaster, cooking range and coffee machine.

Other Makati service apartments and Manila longstay options include the Ascott’s sister properties, Somerset Olympia Makati and Somerset Millenium Makati. Close to The Peninsula, Olympia is the cheapest of the two. It’s in an excellent location, though cabs are not the easiest to come by on Makati Avenue at peak hours. Though the apartments are spacious, homey and clean, the property is due for an upgrade. A facelift is in the pipeline. One-bedroom apartments come with a semi-stocked kitchenette, a living and dining room, complimentary bottled water, WiFi at a price (and, frustratingly, only for one device), a large in-room safe, daily breakfast at a choice of two restaurants (Old Swiss Inn being the better option), and solid security. Perhaps the property’s most redeeming quality is the perpetually friendly staff.

The 146-apartment Millenium is another mid-range option, though newer and more modern in design. The property lies in a more residential neighbourhood and has a hands-off feel. Despite the lax supervision, don’t even think about throwing a party. Strict guidelines in the lobby warn social butterflies to lay low. Expect an inviting lap pool, gym, and lounge facilities. Rooms house a mix of dark and blonde woods with sophisticated beige, brown and black colour-schemes, fully equipped kitchens, comfy couches and WiFi for a price. The Ascott family expects to christen two new hotels, Ascott Bonifacio Global City and Citadines Salcedo Makati, by 2014.

A quality option for a Makati service apartment is 89-room Fraser Place Manila, near Salcedo Village, not far from the Mandarin Oriental. Expect well-appointed residences with jet pools and multi-point showers, TV with DVD hook-up, Broadband, hairdryer, large refrigerator, microwave, cutlery and iron with ironing board. A handy feature is all apartments come with a maid’s room and toilet. There is also an open-air pool, a play area for kids, a wading pool, gym, and business centre for the dads. Internet is complimentary with most packages.

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A crop of budget hotels

Oxford Suites Makati, located close to P Burgos Street – Makati’s red-light row – offers convenient access to the city’s business district, plus its more playful nooks. This is a useful Makati budget hotel of sorts with in-room cable TV, mini-bar, safe, Internet access, WiFi in the lobby, business centre, coffee shop and function rooms. Smack on P Burgos is the Citadel Inn Makati with in-room cutlery, kitchenware, fridge, mini-bar and a swimming pool on the sixth floor. The hotel even has a small business centre. A studio here will set you back just around P1,900. WiFi is available (charged per day) and the front desk has a safe to store your valuables. The area is teeming with restaurants from Japanese and Korean to Thai, Chinese and American.

A reasonably cheap Manila budget hotel is the gleaming Makati Palace Hotel. It is brash, loud, in the centre of P Burgos, and better appointed than its simpler neighbours. You can get rates of around P1,950 here or lower, depending on the season. There is a swimming pool, gym, business centre and complimentary shoeshine on the Royal Executive Floor. This is one of those tawdry over-the-top establishments you won’t mind using for the cheap room rate but you’ll need to don shades when you step out lest your friends spot you and have you arrested.

For those flying in for a budget weekend, it doesn’t get much cheaper than Saint Illian's Inn in Makati. Its deals (for about US$45) can conjure a smile upon the most hardened faces, and the place is smack in the middle of everything. All the basic requisite comforts are available – Cable TV, shower with hot and cold water and air-conditioning.

Paramount’s clean and comfortable 21-room Salcedo Suites at LPL Manor have air-conditioning, cable TV and fridge and start as low as around US$48.

A notable addition to the Makati budget scene is the 512-room St Giles Hotel, on the edge of Makati’s ‘red light’ district. The place is a steal if you don’t mind the location – about a five-minute cab ride to Greenbelt, and well within walking distance of evening amusements, such as Ringside Bar, where shameless travellers can catch a round of midget boxing and share a booth with relentlessly affectionate young women.

Don’t expect five-star amenities, but the clean, modern hotel has solid security, friendly staff, a sky-deck pool with spectacular city views, and a hearty breakfast spread. The rooms are simple, but perfectly functional. Expect electronic key card entry, in-room safes, clean bathrooms and a 32in flatscreen TV. WiFi is complimentary for only one device, which can be frustrating if you’re travelling as a couple. Rates here are low, starting at roughly P2,000, but likely to increase with more exposure.

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Fort Bonifacio Global City area hotels

Given the popularity of the Fort Bonifacio shopping and fun district not far from Makati, hotels have been quick to gobble up plots. The first hotel to mark its territory is the 243-room Best Western Premier F1 Hotel (2012). Though the ground-floor entrance is a bit cramped and confusing, friendly and attentive concierge staff will greet you on the fifth floor. The skyscraper is modern in design, with abstract sculptures throughout, crimson walls, and dark grey furniture. In the 25sq m to 35sq m superior rooms, expect hardwood floors, large safes, a 32-inch LCD flatscreen, coffee and tea facilities, iPod docks, free WiFi, walk-in showers, a complimentary breakfast buffet, and electronic locks. The spa is in the 2013 pipeline while the 24-hour fitness centre, lap pool and ballroom are in full swing.

By 2014, a Shangri-La, Hyatt, Solare, Ascott, and boutique property Cocoon plan to join the mix – likely among many others.

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Manila business hotels and leisure stays

First off, figure out where your work is. As the crow flies, Manila (the Roxas Avenue area along the seafront and the government offices) and Makati (the business and financial hub) are just a few kilometres apart. But as the car travels – especially at peak time – a commute can be a test of patience and skill. Plan ahead. Manila business hotels are varied though this area tends to also attract a leisure crowd.

Find the large and modern 376-room Hyatt Hotel and Casino Manila in the upper Malate area. With four levels of casino space (one exclusively for foreigners), 123 gaming tables and 626 slot machines, this is one of the largest facilities for high-rollers. The contemporary state-of-the-art ballroom offers 6,763sq ft of flexible space that can handle a 700-person reception. Not surprisingly this is a hotel gunning for MICE business. For the uninitiated, this means meetings, incentives, conferences and exhibitions. At Club Oasis guests can enjoy spa facilities, a fitness centre, sauna, hot and cold plunge pools and a 25m lap pool.

The premier Regency Club offers business travellers all the little extras and personalised service. In-room there's a work station, flat-screen TV, a DVD and CD player and Broadband access. Rooms are bright and airy on account of the extra-high ceilings and large glass windows that create a nice sense of space. Bathrooms are well lit and welcoming, with rain showers.

Pastel wallpaper mutes the contemporary in-room tone contrasted by bright cushions and textured fabric that adds Filipino spice. For dining expect Li Li for Chinese with Cantonese accents and The Fireplace grill room with a selection of over 800 fine wines. Nothing like a bit of wine to get the gaming started. The exterior is a rather bright mustard yellow that may not be to everyone's taste but the interiors are crisp and modern. This is among the top Manila business hotels in the area.

The Hyatt is part of a cluster of three hotels that will catch your eye. This is where you’ll find the gracious Diamond Hotel Philippines (formerly Manila Diamond). The Diamond’s bars and restaurants have won numerous accolades and service is crisp with a smile. Its rooms are fashionably European in taste and style – they offer a smart environment with luxury trim and silk cushions. All rooms have Broadband Internet access charged per hour or day. WiFi is free in rooms and public spaces for the first three hours, but after that, expect to shell out. This 27-storey hotel offers great views along Roxas and across the bay. End-of-day wind-down options include the outdoor pool, a massage at Diamond Spa and perhaps a sauna to slough off that daytime Manila muck.

The Pan Pacific Manila is a contemporary hotel adjacent to Robinson’s Mall. All rooms are equipped with free high-speed Internet connections, and a CD player. Rooms offer hypo-allergenic bedding for the extra-sensitive,a TV you can view from the bathtub, and 24-hour butler service. There is a business centre, several function rooms and a grand ballroom. All three hotels in this area stake their claim to being the best Manila conference hotel choice and, with the Philippine International Convention Center and the Cultural Center of the Philippines, or CCP, across Roxas Avenue, this is perhaps something to heed if business brings you to this area.

The cheaper Bayview Park Hotel is on upper Roxas Boulevard not far from the stately but ageing Manila Hotel that has been home to just about every head of state and celebrity that’s ever visited The Philippines. This goes back all the way to Douglas McArthur and right up to Michael Jackson. Experience hoary Philippines hospitality, old world furnishings and decor, and creaking waiters at the 570-room Manila Hotel. It was for a while overrun by conventioneers and general onlookers keen to snap the chandeliers and pose for weddings but is reclaiming some of its earlier poise and pride with a revamp. Internet is available and there’s WiFi in the lobby.

Rooms are spacious and warm, with latticed dark wood, mother-of-pearl details, floor-to-ceiling windows, and Filipino artwork. In honour of the hotel’s Grand Centennial (2012), all guest rooms have been revitalised with newly upholstered furniture, wallpaper and carpeting. Expect some tech-savvy touches as well, such as a fancy room-key entry, 40-inch LCD TVs, ambient lighting, and pop-up international plugs. The pool, wet bar and buffet restaurants have enjoyed updates as well. Worth a look-see and useful if you are visiting on government business.

Despite a great build-up the Hotel H2O is a somewhat disappointing addition to the Manila Bay sweep. Design is dreamy and quirky – in some cases, huge aquarium tanks full of neon-lit jelly fish float beside your bed – but the bizarre location, smack in the middle of Manila Ocean Park jammed with tour buses and overrun by screaming schoolchildren, is enough to crimp anyone’s style. Taxis can be hard to come by as well. More so as this is a high-end design offering not really aimed at families. That said, head up a distant lift to the third-floor lobby to be greeted by friendly, welcoming staff.

The 128 rooms and 19 suites are minimalist and on the cosy side. Standards start at 24sq m, while the loft-style suites are more spacious. The décor is lightwood and pastel and many rooms offer HUGE views out over the bay, especially corners. Bedrooms are pleasing with flatscreen TVs, and notebook-size safes. In some, you can watch fish scuttle by as you soak in a long bath. Suites are split-level with high glass windows, black-and-white furnishings and a Jacuzzi with a view. All rooms offer a complimentary minibar and free WiFi. Later stroll down to the boardwalk of the bay-facing White Moon Bar.

At the edge of the old city stands The Bayleaf Intramuros (November 2011). This addition to the walled city marries old and new with a traditional, colonial facade and contemporary interior design. On your way in, expect to battle swimming schools of students. Security is not over-imposing and once inside, the ambience is more relaxing. The stylized lobby sports perfectly placed greenery, backlit walls and modern seating. Every floor has a different colour palette – lime green, zesty orange, fresh teal and a juicy plum – based on paintings by none other than the owner’s aunt.

The tallest building in Intramuros (legally, no one can stack higher), the 57-room Bayleaf offers stunning 360-degree views of the fortress walls, Manila bay and nearby golf course. Though the mood changes from room to room, all standard rooms come with funky textured headboards, large desks, free WiFi (for one user), free parking, complimentary buffet breakfast, big safes, and spacious all-white bathrooms with mother-of-pearl accents and full body column showers. For now, the hotel remains relatively inexpensive. This is a fresh face in a unique location.

Along the mid-point of Roxas Avenue is the Traders Hotel Manila by Shangri-La with views of Manila Bay, an outdoor pool, fitness centre, Traders Club accommodation for executive guests featuring 36sq m rooms with high-end furnishings, free WiFi, satellite TV, and writing desk, and the Traders Club lounge with flowing refreshments and cocktails. Regular in-room Broadband is complimentary, but WiFi is charged per hour or day.

Also on Roxas is the excellent little G Hotel Manila by Waterfront. It’s a mouthful of a name for a small friendly property with 50 rooms housed in seven storeys offering personalised service and a boutique hotel experience. Service is attentive, smiling and brisk in the ultra-modern, black-and-white lobby. Walk in without being eaten alive by a salivating dog. Nearby are the now closed Admiral Hotel and a useful, pretty clean, Manila budget hotel option, the Aloha Hotel. Don’t expect too much here but all the basics are available for about US$60 a night.

For one of the best Manila conference hotels, secluded, resort-style and by the bay, take a look at the Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila, once a concrete relic from the Marcos years, now a revitalised bit of real estate humming with French flair and artistry. Check out their popular buffets at Spiral looking onto generous gardens and open ocean vistas. Heralded as the largest buffet in Asia, Spiral has rebounded from 2011’s crippling flood with expanded outdoor seating and an even more expansive spread. Upstairs, Le Bar offers a more clubby, leather-chair experience. The 609-room Sofitel is geared firmly towards the business traveller and conventioneer though over weekends it caters with aplomb for Filipino families enjoying an outing.

Sited right next to the Philippine International Convention Center, guests attending conferences and meetings at this venue need only invest in a three-minute walk to the site. Otherwise, Sofitel’s meeting rooms can accommodate an array of set-ups, with the largest holding up to 2,000 guests. A 42sq m Superior room is kitted out in pastel tones with pale gold bed runners and burgundy trim. There is a regular classic-face clock, a generous work desk with ergonomic chair, SONY flatscreen TV and a DVD player. Rooms are minimalist and simple but bright. Expect free WiFi throughout the property, in-room coffee and tea facilities, an iron and ironing board, a notebook-size safe, a compact bathing area with shower (no tub) and hairdryer. Some rooms have been redone with small see-through glass partitions separating the bedroom and bath. Many offer private balconies looking onto Manila Bay.

The Sofitel Suites are a generous 84sq m with large king-size bed called “My Bed”. Of course! All of these rooms have balconies a reclining sofa and a long work desk with three sockets including two that are multi-pin. For the bathing area expect twin vanities, and a bathtub with shower. The large living room serves up another 46-inch TV and a second work desk. Get a rubdown at the iridescent Le Spa, make use of the hotel’s putting greens and driving range, work out on the all-weather floodlit tennis courts, try your hand at petanque, jog, or avail of the Kinesis cable machines in the lime green, 24-hour SoFit fitness centre. A large free-form pool is set in gardens overlooking the bay. It includes a children’s area and small water slides. Not far from here is the cruise departure area for Corregidor Island, an interesting side trip for the road-weary.

And yes, getting to Makati or back from here during peak hours is well nigh Mission Impossible. At other times, it’s a 15-minute breeze. In-room Internet is available free for three hours and then charged. All in, this is a good Manila child-friendly hotel.

Not far from here the 450-room The Heritage Hotel Manila, once a sprightly smart option, popular with business travellers, and deemed to be conveniently equidistant from the airport, the bay area and Makati, has evolved into a hellhole in the middle of nowhere. The only view you’ll get from here is of traffic and belching jeepneys. At night, the girlie bars take over across the road with loud karaoke music and blaring disco.

The minimal security at the door is perhaps fortuitous for the ladies working late shifts at the dance clubs nearby. Internet is available at a small charge per day. Facilities include a pool and fitness centre. The refurbished Millennium Club rooms offer a better sanctuary with views of Manila Bay and the city. There is a small casino too. Millennium Hotels and Resorts who operate this establishment have many excellent hotels in their stable. Heritage, unfortunately, is not one of these. An advantage of sorts to this location is its proximity to the Mall of Asia, one of the biggest anywhere. Shop till you drop.

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Casino hotels, airport area

Right across from Terminal 3 in Newport City (Pasay) is Resorts World Manila (tel: [63-2] 908-8833), an integrated entertainment, gaming, and casino hotels complex. There’s also a Games Zoo, equipped with arcade games sure to tucker out the kiddies, a 3D theatre, Broadway-style musicals and several halls of high-end shopping. Its accommodations include the luxury Maxims Hotel, Marriott Hotel Manila, and the Remington.

Maxims, run by the Genting Group is an all-suite affair with 172 keys. Glide up the butterfly-lined escalators to get a feel for the bar and restaurant options, or whoosh up the elevator straight to the private lobby, where the black, grey and red decor and abstract splattered paintings could make Victoria Beckham feel underdressed. The scarlet hues continue into the hi-tech rooms, where you can expect a retractable 42-inch HDTV with wireless keyboard, fog-resistant mirrors, a rain shower, free WiFi, kitchenette, touchpad room service menu, 24-hour personal butler service, welcome fruit, complimentary breakfast for two, and an adjoining massage room. To make up for the lacklustre panoramas, the city-view suites include wide patios complete with steamy Jacuzzis and dark wicker furniture. The hotel facilities include an infinity pool surrounded by cabanas, fitness centre, spa, cinema, theatre and mall. Parking is free. For something even more upscale, there are three villas and the 600sq m Presidential Suite.

Neighbouring Remington Hotel is much friendlier on the wallet and offers 623 rooms and 89 serviced apartments. The 21sq m rooms are fairly compact, with two queen beds, 32-inch TV and en suite bathrooms. WiFi is free, but conveniences like a hairdryer, phone calls and parking are available for a small fee.

The 342-room Marriott Hotel Manila, a mid-rise city-resort complex. Its location close by the airport offers quick access to the casinos and gaming of Resorts World Manila as well as the 18-hole Villamor Golf Course. View this then as a Manila casino hotels choice, a family getaway, or simply a multi-purpose business traveller address. In-room expect Internet access, 40-inch hi-def TV, a good array of food and beverage outlets and the Quan Spa. For conference-planners there’s the Grand Ballroom and nine meeting rooms for assorted functions.

The latest to toss some chips into the Philippines gambling scene is Solaire Resort & Casino (March 2013). Located on the coast of Manila Bay on Solaire Boulevard, this newcomer houses 500 rooms, suites and villas, as well as a whopping 15 restaurants and a Grand Ballroom that can accommodate up to 1,000 guests for a sit-down dinner. The resort's suites – ranging from 600sq m to 1,000sq m – are outfitted with Jacuzzis, flat-screen TVs, hi-tech controls, and bay views. The jewel in the crown? An 18,500sq m casino with 1,200 slot machines and 6,000sq m of VIP gaming salons. Well here's another Manila casino hotel for your high-rolling diary.

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Ortigas, long-stay hotels, serviced apartments

In this fast developing business and commercial district, the 263-room Crowne Plaza Manila Galleria offers a smart product with outdoor pool, gym, spa, business centre and Internet at P900 per hour. Check out the Red Corner fitness club. It is also called the “boxing club” and if your boss has been particularly curmudgeonly you can choose your martial art and have a go. Feel better? The Kiddie Corner will take care of tiny tykes and the Robinson’s Galleria Mall next door has a Toys R Us. The linked 285-room Holiday Inn Manila Galleria (formerly the Manila Galleria Suites) offers pool, gym and spa, with a published rate starting at P7,600, though seasonal specials will be cheaper. Both these properties are located near Ortigas Center.

Stay for one day or one hundred days at Oakwood Premier long-stay serviced apartments in Ortigas, along ADB Avenue, 30 minutes from the airport. Located within the Joy-Nostalg Center, Oakwood Premier offers 230 apartments with fully-equipped kitchens, lounge space and all the facilities you would expect in a five-star hotel. This includes pool, free Broadband access, children’s play area, room service, fitness centre, and full business and meetings facilities. Studios start at 41sq m with the three-bedroom suite stretching over 182 sq m, each bedroom with its own en suite bathroom. Décor is modern but homey with enough TVs to keep screaming kids, wives or bosses at bay. Among Manila long-stay hotels, Oakwood stands a cut above with an official “deluxe” rating.

Adjacent to two major shopping centres (Megamall and Shangri-la Mall), the top dog in the Ortigas area is unquestionably the 632-room Edsa Shangri-la Manila, which provides easy access – when traffic is flowing, of course – to any part of Manila via its main artery, the Epifanio De Los Santos Avenue (or EDSA). Its alluring CHI The Spa has 3,000sq m of treatment suites, body scrub rooms with heated floors and relaxation lounges. Although the brand tends to channel the spirit of the Himalayas, it does feature locally-inspired treatments using banana leaves, coconut milk and indigenous herbs. As far as the rooms go, the Tower Wing superiors start at 34sq m with a Premier going up to 46sq m. Edsa Shangri-La is among the more sought after Manila conference hotels for big to small meetings.

The Discovery Suites complex is a premier all-suite serviced apartment building in the heart of the Ortigas business district and it is well worth a look. It has all the trappings of a business hotel with the comforts of home. Rooms come with complimentary unlimited Internet access, pay-per-view movie channels, a fully-stocked kitchen and local daily newspapers. It has a busy feel and attracts a mixed clientele.

The Astoria Plaza Hotel is strolling distance from Megamall, Shangri-La Plaza, and Robinsons Galleria while Makati is 30 minutes away by cab. In-hotel amenities include a spa, health centre and a beauty salon. The hotel’s two-bedroom suites come fully loaded with everything including a kitchen. The Richmonde Hotel, also at the Ortigas Center, is a bit more upscale. The rooms all come with Broadband Internet access, cable TV, a personal safe and a data port for fax and data modems. Internet usage and a buffet breakfast can be thrown in for a small fee.

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Budget hotels and pensions

Paramount’s Atrium Hotel in Pasay offers comfortable rooms with mini-bar, IDD telephones, cable television, and a bathroom with a bathtub and a handy hair-drier. This is not a budget hotel but a limited service value hotel that offers online rates from as low as US$44 or better.

Malate Pensionne located on Adriatico Street in Malate, is for budget travellers who want to stay close to the action. Rates are low but bottom-feeders can crawl down to about US$9 for a dormitory-style set-up. Both fan-cooled and air-conditioned rooms are available at cheap rates.

Getting around Manila

Moving about in Metro Manila isn’t terribly challenging, though you will want to keep an eye on taxi drivers out to make a fast buck. Availing of hotel transport is considerably more expensive than just walking out of the lobby and flagging a street cab. Most areas of direct interest are about P100-P150 from the Makati area. Make sure your driver turns his meter on – some will conveniently “forget”. Rush hour can be maddening so do bear this in mind.

The Manila-Makati cross town could take over an hour-and-a-half if you’re unlucky, or a typhoon is sweeping into town. There are also three metro rail systems that make life a bit, if not a lot, more convenient. The MRT or Metro Rail Transit travels the length of EDSA, a major artery that runs through the length of the city. There is a stop near the Dusit.

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Fun Manila shopping break

Manila shopping is fun. No doubt about that. But, while selections are vast, well presented and engaging, prices are often higher than in Hong Kong or Singapore. Malls are conveniently clustered together for ease of access.

The seamless stretch of modern Greenbelt malls showcases Makati shopping at its best. These offer a tad more class and quiet, and feature a variety of upscale designer fashions for that Manila shopping binge. Pop into BVLGARI, DKNY, PRADA or Marc Jacobs. Browse outlets like Firma (tel: 757-4009), which does jewellery and Panama hats from Ecuador at P4,500 up and its sister outlet ac+632 (tel: [63-2] 758-2564) with a wild assortment of funky accessories and home décor (pick up a pearl-handled walking stick for P2,500). Also available are outlets from Balenciaga, Banana Republic, Zara, Bijou, Bratpack (for American oversized and tough-wear gear), Adora (bags and clothes), Marks & Spencer, Levi’s and Nike. Next to Greenbelt Four is the Ayala Museum with its popular Philippine history dioramas. Moving through Greenbelt Five and beyond the shopping gets even more diverse. Expect Steve Madden bags and shoes, sinequanon, Calvin Klein jeans and underwear, Breitling, Chopard, Omega, Rolex, Patek Philippe, a huge Adidas, Gola (bags) and La Senza for sexy lingerie.

Stop by Soumak Bed 'n Beddings (tel: 757-3914) showcasing a range of bed linen from the Philippines. At The Landmark find hordes of people pottering about the bargain shopping displays. The Glorietta complex, or “The Quad” at the heart of the Makati shopping action has everything from Nautica to Marks & Spencer, eats, junk food, and lots of distraction for kids.

Pick up women’s shoes for P800-P1,000 and assorted clothes. The newer Glorietta 5 stands alone with a clutch of fun pubs and restaurants, a tad more upscale than the central Quad. Next to the Shangri-La in Makati, 6750 Ayala houses top-end European brands and designs. Next door, at Rustan’s you’ll find fragrances and jewellery.

A good place for a long afternoon’s trawl is the Galleria-Megamall-Shangri-La cluster. This group of malls is readily accessible via the MRT. From your hotel, it will be more convenient and expeditious to take a cab to the nearest station – Taft Avenue for those in the Manila Bay area and Ayala for those in Makati. The ride to Shaw Boulevard station will take about 13 minutes from Ayala station and 16 minutes from Taft station. The fare is a staggering 11-13 pesos. North Avenue Station is about 22 minutes from Taft, and costs around P15.

You’ll find just about everything you want for your Manila shopping binge at these three malls, from the familiar to the downright funky. Shopping for things to bring to the folks at home? Check out Tesoro's (tel: [63-2] 887-5550) on Arnaiz Avenue for traditional Filipino handicrafts, Balikbayan Handicrafts (tel: 893-0777) also on Arnaiz Avenue for more of the same with a bit more woody flair, and Silahis (tel: 527-2113) in Intramuros for antique furniture and trinkets.

Megamall’s department store has even more offerings in terms of local goods. All three malls have the usual accoutrements, and health and beauty stores like Watson’s and The Body Shop have the best selection in terms of skin care and therapy products.

Greenhills, is a Manila shopping centre a five or ten-minute cab ride from any of the three malls. Various stalls selling every kind of merchandise are all housed under one roof in air-conditioned bliss giving the shopper a flea market experience minus the dust and heat. Recent years have seen an explosion in the shopping centre’s growth. What was once a mere supermarket and an odd collection of clothing stores has grown into an all-in-one shopping centre replete with cinemas and a fine selection of menus to satisfy every palate. At Greenhills you’ll find everything from exotic South Sea pearls to cheap garments, mobile phones and electronic accessories.

Depending on the quality, a string of pearls will set you back about US$20-$80. The trinket stores are all side by side making for extremely competitive pricing. Prices can be obscenely low. Like any flea market, haggling is not only acceptable but expected but not in the higher end stores. Purists can head to the old quarter of Intramuros and its antique shops like Galeria Ida Antique.

Up north you’ll find TriNoMa, another massive addition to Manila’s collection of malls. It’s easily accessed by the MRT, which has an entrance that connects directly to the mall. The train ride takes about 12 minutes from the Ayala station in Makati. The mall itself is shaped like a large lopsided triangle, which makes navigating its environs a bit of a challenge. But if you’re patient enough, you’ll find everything you could possibly fancy. Kids can go to the local Toys R Us, mums can check out a few designer bags, while dads can get their fill of gadgets ranging from electronic shavers to the latest model mobile phones. Mall hours are from 10am to 9pm.

The Mall of Asia (www.smmallofasia.com) is a must-see. It’s perhaps the largest mall in Asia, and is built on a huge patch of reclaimed land, south of Roxas Boulevard by the Bay. Moving around requires a bit of legwork but there’s a competitive selection of latest-season goods from high end to middle range. Expect to find Nautica, TopMan, Osh Kosh, Barbie, Esprit, Geox, Kid's Republic, Mango, Guess, Skin Food and U2. You get the drift. The mall also has the only IMAX theatre in the country. Also expect a skating rink and occasional big-name music concerts. The best way to get to the mall is by cab. Mall hours are from 10am to 10pm.

That’s Manila shopping in a nutshell. What’s the catch? Well, you’ll have to brave the crowds on the weekends and you don’t even want to contemplate a visit during the Christmas holidays. This is gridlock like you’ve never experienced.

Fort Bonifacio Global City, or “The Fort”, is another up-and-coming shopping centre, with inviting lawns, outdoor seating, fountains, modern sculptures and a mix of local and international brands. The grounds are quite clean and security is ubiquitous, with guards on each block. Find brands such as MUJI, Gap, Beauty Bar, Nine West, Calvin Klein, TopShop, United Colors of Benetton, Aldo, Forever XXI, Lush, and many more coming soon.

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Of course dining and nightlife

Whatever your taste or pleasure, Manila dining offers something for everyone. The latest area to catch the citizens’ fancy is Bonifacio Global City, about a 10-minute drive from Makati without traffic, past the splendid San Antonio church to the broad greens, condominiums, and restaurant areas. Anchoring High Street, Market! Market! is an outdoor shopping and recreational hotspot that worth a look. Surrounded by live music, you’ll find an array of local delicacies, souvenirs, fresh fruits and plenty of quick-hit food stalls, but more upscale dining options await across the street.

Heading west onto High Street, the area's pedestrian-only shopping and dining artery, look for places like Red Kimono (Japanese), Hossein’s Persian Kebabs (a Manila stalwart, with a terrific upstairs outlet and a “sheesha” hubble-bubble bar near P Burgos too), Caffe Puccini (Italian), Trio Italian Bistro, Prince of Jaipur (Indian), Sentro (Filipino) and Pier One Bar and Grill (seafood in a pirate shack – or ship, maybe).

Drawing all kinds of attention from those in the know is neither a bar nor restaurant, but rather, a museum. A modern science outpost run by the Bonifacio Art Foundation, The Mind Museum (opened 2012, www.themindmuseum.org) is a hotpot of activity. Stop in to catch one of its more than 250 interactive exhibits, explore its five galleries or wander into one of its alfresco “Science-in-the-Park” events.

At the Ayala Center in Makati, a row of restaurants span Italian to native Filipino fare. A meal for two at most of the establishments here will cost about P1,800 (US$43). At Greenbelt make time to visit Café Bola, where Filipino food is served with panache. Try its “sinigang” (boiled pork in a sour soup) and “tuyo” (dried herring) for a decidedly Filipino experience. MyLK, another Greenbelt restaurant, serves a kaleidoscope of dishes centred on the concept of comfort food. Wasabi Bistro & Sake Bar on Makati Avenue close by The Peninsula is a contemporary Japanese restaurant with Californian influence. Try the white fish, crabmeat and avocado with a special sauce.

If you’re in Quezon City, check out Mario’s Restaurant (tel: [63-2] 415-3887). The food is a mix of Mediterranean and Asian, with options such as a cold-cut platter and shrimp chilli pasta. Try the oysters Rockefeller with spinach hollandaise sauce and angel hair pasta with black olives. Complement your meal with a choice of wine from the fine cellar. Popular for coffee and cakes too. The restaurant is located on Tomas Morato Ave.

Illustrado (tel: [63-2] 527-2319), housed in a rebuilt turn-of-the-century house in Intramuros, offers Spanish and traditional Filipino fare. There's an excellent menu coupled with an extensive wine list. Try their paella and “adobong usa” (venison cooked in vinegar and soy sauce). The restaurant features a separate coffee shop with freshly prepared pastries. Barbara's (tel: 527-4090) offers a Spanish-inspired setting. It’s fairly romantic and seafood is the order of the day here.

For Spanish, there's Guernica’s where the menu is strictly traditional. The dishes are heavy on olive oil and garlic and the restaurant's trio of musicians serenade tables. Guernica's is located at Jorge Bocobo Street in Malate.

Manila nightlife is second to none and the partying goes on into the wee hours. The Hard Rock (tel: 893-4661) comes to life at about 10pm. Happy hour starts at 9.30am and ends at 7.30pm, making it perhaps one of the longest "hours" anywhere. Forget that siesta – get happy instead. Café Havana (tel: 757-4370) is located in both Greenbelt in Makati and Malate, and has a reputation for wild drinking and dancing. The bar hopping scene is centred mainly on two locations: Libis in Quezon City and Malate in Old Manila. A bottle of beer will set you back about P150-P300, depending on how snazzy the place is. Meanwhile Grappa's brews its own beer and offers an interesting selection of flavoured beer in addition to an excellent menu.

Should you find yourself up in Quezon in the evening, you may want to check out SeventySeven Café Bar and Resto (tel: [63] 917-940-8384). With a homey, ’70s throwback feel, this family-run business presents relaxed alfresco dining. The cosy restaurant downstairs serves its chicken parmigiana and crispy pita and has a decent selection of white and red wines.

Testosterone-crazed Alpha Males will head for the beer and bawdy ruckus of places like P Burgos Street and Malate, where skimpily-clad ladies coo from neon-lit doorways, urging the purchase of an overpriced drink in a noisy establishment. Girlie bars around P Burgos Street with names like Flamingo, Rogues, Dimples, and Ivory beckon, and continue to do so until 4am while touts outside offer Viagra or Cialis at P1,000 for four tablets. You’ll be offered the Viagra regardless of whether you’re 20 or 70. That’s a lot of drinking, and partying. Regular priced beer is P150 (happy hour is cheaper) though your cooing companion’s drink will be double that.

Yet Makati has a slew of terrific bars, without the come-hither cost. Conway’s (tel: 813-8888) on the second floor of the Shangri-La Makati offers an all-you-can-drink menu at P530 during happy hour (6pm to 8pm). You'll drown in hops but die happy.

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FAST FACTS / Hotel Contact List

Exchange rate: The Philippine peso is at roughly US$1 = P42.

Check Web rates: Visit hotel websites for updates on special rates and promos. Rates below are published “rack” rates, or the full price. Often room rates do not include taxes, which range between 10 and 13 percent.

Guides & websites: Get a copy of the Metro Manila Street Guide at a local bookstore. Remember to take the metered cabs rather than the hotel variety that charge more for the same service. And always insist on using the meter. A comprehensive Philippines government website with useful information and pictures is www.wowphilippines.com.ph.

Fort Bonifacio Global City hotels

Best Western Premier F1 Hotel. Tel: [63-2] 928-9888, fax: 928-1888, (e-mail: inquiry@bwpf1hotel.com or www.bestwesternpremierf1hotel.com).

Makati business hotels and service apartments

Ascott Makati. Tel: [63-2] 729-8888, fax: 755-8188, (e-mail: enquiry.manila@the-ascott.com or www.the-ascott.com).
Berjaya Manila Hotel. Tel: [63-2] 750-7500, fax: 750-6783, (e-mail: manila.inquiry@berjayahotel.com or www.berjayahotel.com/manila/index.asp).
Best Western Plus Antel Hotel. Tel: [63-2] 403-0888, fax: 403-0854, (e-mail: reservations@antelhotel.com or www.antelhotel.com).
Dusit Thani Manila. Tel: [63-2] 238-8888, fax: 238-8800, (e-mail: dtmn@dusit.com or www.dusit.com).
Fairmont Makati. Tel: [63-2] 555-9888, fax: 555-9899, (e-mail: sales.makati@raffles.com or www.fairmont.com/makati/).
Fraser Place Manila. Tel: [63-2] 818-1818, fax: 818-4222, (e-mail: sales.manila@frasershospitality.com or manila.frasershospitality.com).
Hotel Celeste. Tel: [63-2] 887-8080, fax: 887-8088, (e-mail: info@hotelcéleste.ph or www.hotelceleste.ph).
InterContinental Manila. Tel: [63-2] 793-7000, fax: 752-7777, (e-mail: manila@interconti.com or www.intercontinental.com/manila).
Makati Shangri-La, Manila. Tel: [63-2] 813-8888, fax: 813-5499, (e-mail: slm@shangri-la.com or www.shangri-la.com).
Mandarin Oriental, Manila. Tel: [63-2] 750-8888, fax: 817-2472, (e-mail: momnl-reservations@mohg.com or www.mandarinoriental.com/manila).
New World Makati City Manila Hotel. Tel: [63-2] 811-6888, fax: 811-6777, (e-mail: reservations.manila@newworldhotels.com or www.manila.newworldhotels.com).
Raffles Hotel Makati. Tel: [63-2] 555-9777, fax: 555-9799, (e-mail: reservations.makati@raffles.com or www.raffles.com/makati/home/).
Solaire Resort & Casino. Tel: [63-2] 888-8888, (e-mail: connect@solairemanila.com or www.solaireresort.com).
Somerset Olympia Makati. Tel: [63-2] 812-1010, fax: 818-8254, (e-mail: enquiry.manila@the-ascott.com or www.the-ascott.com).
Somerset Millenium Makati. Tel: [63-2] 750-7888, fax: 751-1111, (e-mail: enquiry.manila@the-ascott.com or www.the-ascott.com).
The Peninsula Manila. Tel: [63-2] 887-2888, fax: 815-4825, (e-mail: pmn@peninsula.com or manila.peninsula.com).

Manila, long-stay hotels, serviced apartments, budget stays

Best Western Oxford Suites Makati. Tel: [63-2] 899-7888, fax: 897-7900, (e-mail: reservations@oxfordsuitesmakati.com or www.oxfordsuitesmakati.com).
Citadel Inn Makati. Tel: [63-2] 897-2370, fax: 897-2686, (e-mail: reservation@citadel-inn-makati.com or www.citadel-inn-makati.com).
Makati Palace Hotel. Tel: [63-2] 899-0344, fax: 897-5050, (e-mail: info@makatipalacehotel.com.ph or www.makatipalacehotel.com.ph).
Oakwood Premier Joy-~Nostalg Center Manila. Tel: [63-2] 637-7888, fax: 706-777, (www.oakwoodasia.com).
Saint Illian’s Inn. Tel: [63-2] 893-0754, fax: 812-1998, (e-mail: saintilliansinn@yahoo.com or www.saintilliansinn.com).
Salcedo Suites. Tel: [63-2] 893-2654, fax: 892-5322, (e-mail: salcedosuites@paramounthotels.com.ph or www.salcedosuites-makati.com).
St. Giles Hotel. Tel: [63-2] 988-9888, fax: 988-9889, (e-mail: info@StGilesManila.com or www.stgilesmanila.com/).

Manila business hotels and leisure stays, Roxas area, Manila Bay

Aloha Hotel. Tel: [63-2] 526-8088, fax: 521-5328, (e-mail: alohahotel@eastern.com.ph or www.alohahotel.net.ph).
The Bayleaf Intramuros. Tel: [63-2] 318-5000, fax: 318-5001, (e-mail: inquiry@ thebayleaf.com.ph or www.thebayleaf.com.ph).
Bayview Park Hotel. Tel: [63-2] 247-9000, fax: 522-3040, (e-mail: bookings@bayviewparkhotel.com or www.bayviewparkhotel.com).
Diamond Hotel Philippines. Tel: [63-2] 528-3000, fax: 526-2255, (e-mail: bizcenter@diamondhotel.com or www.diamondhotel.com).
G Hotel Manila by Waterfront. Tel: [63-2] 525-0888, fax: 400-0876, (e-mail: g.hotel@waterfrontotels.net or www.g-hotel.com.ph).
The Heritage Hotel Manila. Tel: [63-2] 854-8888, fax: 854-8833, (e-mail: inquiry@heritagehotelmanila.com or www.heritagehotelmanila.com).
Hotel H2O. Tel: [63-2] 238-6100, fax: 238-6188, (e-mail: reservation@hotelh2o.com or www.hotelh2o.com).
Hyatt Hotel and Casino Manila. Tel: [63-2] 245-1234, fax: 247-1234, (e-mail: manila.casino@hyatt.com or manila.casino.hyatt.com).
Manila Hotel. Tel: [63-2] 527-0011, fax: 527-5348, (www.manila-hotel.com.ph).
Pan Pacific Manila. Tel: [63-2] 318-0788, fax: 302-9501, (e-mail: reserve.mnl@panpacific.com or www.panpacific.com/manila).
Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila. Tel: [63-2] 551-5555, fax: 551-5610, (e-mail: room.reservations@sofitelmanila.com or www.sofitel.com).
Traders Hotel Manila by Shangri-La. Tel: [63-2] 523-7011, fax: 522-3985, (e-mail: thm@shangri-la.com or www.shangri-la.com).

Manila casino hotels, Resorts World, airport area

Manila Marriott Hotel. Tel: [63-2] 988-9999, fax: 836-9998, (www.marriott.com/hotels).
Maxims Tower (Resorts World Manila). (www.rwmanila.com/hotels).

Manila budget hotels and pensiones

Atrium Hotel. Tel: [63-2] 552-0351, fax: 552-0180, (e-mail: atriumhotel_sls@yahoo.com or www.atriumhotel-manila.com).
Malate Pensionne. Tel: [63-2] 523-8304, fax: 522-6626, (e-mail: info@mpensionne.com or www.mpensionne.com.ph).

Ortigas hotels and service apartments

Astoria Plaza Hotel. Tel: [63-2] 687-1111, fax: 910-0370, (e-mail: rsvn@astoriaplaza.com or www.astoriaplazasuites.com).
CrownePlaza Galleria Manila. Tel: [63-2] 633-7222, fax: 638-2927, (e-mail: mnlcp@ihg.com or www.crowneplaza.com/galleriamanila).
Discovery Suites. Tel: [63-2] 719-8888, fax: 719-6789, (e-mail: rsvn@discovery.com.ph or www.discoverysuites.com).
Edsa Shangri-La Manila. Tel: [63-2] 633-8888, fax: 631-1067 (e-mail: esl@shangri-la.com or www.shangri-la.com).
Holiday Inn Manila Galleria. Tel: [63-2] 633-7111, fax: 634-9966, (e-mail: business.center@holiday-inn.galleria-manila.com or www.holiday-inn.com/higalleria).
The Eastwood Richmonde Hotel. Tel: [63-2] 638-7777, fax: 638-8567, (e-mail: phri@richmondehotel.com.ph or www.richmondehotel.com).

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