OCATED far enough from Mumbai (Bombay) not to be overwhelmed by its boisterous bustle and bedlam, but yet alluringly close enough to be accessible by road or rail, and then foot, horseback or even hand-pulled rickshaws, the hill station of Matheran is a dream - authentic, cool, pickled in the past, and entirely given over to pedestrians. No honking cars at this 803m-high retreat.

Just 90km from India's financial capital in the mist-wreathed hills of the Western Ghats, Matheran was developed by the British as civilised respite from the muggy heat and thrum of the coast. Here under a soaring 35ft wooden ceiling, sit down with a large book and a fizzy gin to gawp out of the wraparound verandah of a charming mansion brought to life by the Neemrana Hotels group as The Verandah in the Forest, Matheran. True to its charter, nothing here will alarm, fret or ruffle the visitor. Everything about The Verandah is reminiscent of a gracious family home where the welcome is warm as it is unobtrusive.

Stroll down to the picturesque and wooded Charlotte Lake, sample the local cuisine and spices, spend time enjoying quietude and inner space, or pop another soda and pour yourself a drink. The Verandah in the Forest is one of the best Indian heritage hotels, its charm lying entirely in its simplicity of outlook and execution rather than in glitz and glamour. Yet, to call it a hotel is perhaps a stretch. It is a mansion, a home, a hideaway. Walks are abundant and most sights like Echo Point, Louisa Point and Panorama Point are all a quick walk from the central post office.

Getting to Matheran is easy. Road and rail connections lead to Neral from where you can catch the narrow gauge Toy Train that chugs up, slowly, into a different world. You can walk, ride a horse, or have yourself carted up in a rickshaw should you so choose, enjoying views of grand old mansions and family homes built by the Parsis, Bohras and the British. Says Conde Nast Traveller, UK, "The Neemrana Hotels group is India's best kept secret and offers a range of extraordinary places to stay."